Welcome back to the City of Lights. And welcome back to our succinct 10-word show reviews (if you want to dip and dash) or listen to our audio reviews (if you want to hear our full thoughts) on the best shows from Paris Fashion Week Men's for the autumn/winter 2020 season.
Saddle up your fashion pony, kids. We're bringing you our favourite looks, must-have accessories, and candid observations from the men's runways—insights that you can only get from attending the show in person.
For the fourth day of Paris Fashion Week Men's AW20, Berluti painted the runway with neon highlighters and Officine Générale proffered handsome classics cast in corduroy.
BERLUTI: BRIGHT IS BEAUTIFUL
Designer: Kris Van Assche
10-word show review: Colour blocked neon bright suits set against hand-burnished leather outerwear.
Favourite look: The neon flowers that bordered the winding marble staircase leading up to the runway at Opera Garnier, foretold the story to come—Kris Van Assche was elevating the beauty of classics by dialling them up with electric bright highlights. What ensued was a cavalcade of tailoring cast in eye-popping hues. But, almost because of the contrast, we were salivating over look 11—that single-breasted suit worn over a turtleneck, anchored with sharp-toed boots, and topped off with a drawstring fisherman's hat—all crafted from the same hand-burnished Berluti tobacco brown leather.
Favourite accessory: Show-goers were talking about the Berluti neon sneakers (yes, Berluti now does active trainers) but I was more drawn to their impressive stable of bags, clutches and weekenders. If money was not an issue, you really can't go wrong with that crocodile tote in look 17.
OFFICINE GÉNÉRALE: CLEAN UP WITH CORDUROY
Designer: Pierre Mahéo
10-word show review: Handsome menswear separates grounded in traditional checks and industrious corduroy.
Favourite look: There was an onslaught of never-out-of-style broken suits and effortless coats in Prince of Wales checks and pied-de-poule, but our vote goes to that industrious appeal of look 22 with its dark denim trucker jacket worn over a large wale corduroy trouser in a sumptuous honeyed hue, expertly truncated at the ankle with a one-inch cuff in order to show off black lace-up boots with lug soles. Handsome.
Favourite accessory: A label like Officine Générale is not interested in flashy fashion. And with that ethos, its accessories are tried-and-tested staples like those white leather sneakers that opened the show or striped black ties that closed the runway. However, if you're after something to wrap yourself in during those cold ski trips to Niseko or even when you're just sitting at your desk perched under the AC, then look no further than those oversized winter-white scarves.
Day 1 of Paris Fashion Week Men’s AW20: Sankuanz and AMI
Day 2 of Paris Fashion Week Men's AW20: Off-White, JW Anderson and Valentino
Day 3 of Paris Fashion Week Men’s AW20: Givenchy, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake, Amiri, Louis Vuitton and Dries Van Noten
Day 4 of Paris Fashion Week Men's AW20: Dior Men
Day 5 of Paris Fashion Week Men's AW20: Loewe, Bode, Sacai and Hermès
Day 6 of Paris Fashion Week Men's AW20: dunhill and Paul Smith