Paris Fashion Week Men's might not be known for its traditional sartorial flair; that's more Milan Fashion Week Men's. But on the fourth day of the spring/summer 2020 show season, we saw two different designers push tailoring to logical, modern heights. Here's our breakdown of the spring/summer 2020 menswear offerings by Berluti and JUUN.J.
At a maison such as Berluti, where its legacy is deeply connected to leather craftsmanship and the mastery of colours, how does one bridge the gap between its existing clientele and a new audience? While other brands went the streetwear route, artistic director Kris Van Assche chose tailoring as the medium to bridge that divide. But not just with any suit; the goal was to inject a dose of youthful energy without it looking foreign. Instead of using gimmicky streetwear tropes, Van Assche reworked the shoulder line and gave the appearance of a slightly sloped shoulder. The pieces looked fresh, sexy and extremely desirable—a feeling that one would be familiar with when looking at a pair of Alessandro patina leather shoes by Berluti.
The sophomore effort by Van Assche saw him continuing to develop the colour palettes introduced during his Berluti debut for autumn/winter 2019. Van Assche drew inspiration from the craftsmen at Berluti's Ferrara-based factory, especially their work with colour and the marble tables that they worked on. Spring/summer 2020 saw the introduction of more technicolour hues on the garments; highlights include fluorescent orange, electric blue, mustard, vivid violet and royal purple. They were also translated onto marble prints that serves as a new signature of the house, appearing on shirts, trousers and leather accessories.
But one can't talk about a collection by Berluti without mentioning their leathers, which were translated into Scritto-embossed suits and bomber jackets. The leather coat and trousers were also outstanding—clean, simple and yet so desirable. Coats and short-sleeved shirts crafted from perforated suede, also lent a nice luxurious option for dressing down in the summer. Van Assche has slowly surfaced from his dive into the rich history of the brand, and used what he's found to rewrite and reimagine.
While the Korean based label has dabbled in streetwear in recent seasons, the spring/summer 2020 collection saw a return to tailoring as the core ethos. There was a strong emphasis on oversized shoulders and boxy silhouettes, interspersed throughout a meld of military and gothic influences. The classic flight suit which was given a luxurious facelift, was remade with strong tailored shoulders and in buttery soft leather. The collection chose a stark monochromatic colour palette to accentuate the strong silhouettes that were put forth.
While the suits and coats were visually strong and imposing, they were juxtaposed with light, billowy hooded bombers. The military trend continued in the form of oversized cargo trousers that you could unzip at the sides, and oversized sleeveless safari jackets. The accessories were also another highlight of the collection, in the form of oversized belted bags, armband leather bags as well as new versions of his chunky Volume 3 sneaker in bright yellow, dusty pink, grey, white and black.
The collection might be light on concept, but it gave space for the standout pattern-making to shine. At JUUN.J, less was definitely more.
Paris Fashion Week Men's SS20 Day 1: Heron Preston, Fumito Ganryu and CMMN SWDN
Paris Fashion Week Men's SS20 Day 2: Off-White, Y/Project, Raf Simons and Undercover
Paris Fashion Week Men’s SS20 Day 3: Louis Vuitton, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake and Amiri
Paris Fashion Week Men's SS20 Day 4: Dior Men
Paris Fashion Week Men's SS20 Day 5: Sacai, Loewe and Hermès
Paris Fashion Week Men’s SS20 Day 6: dunhill, 1017 ALYX 9SM and CELINE