We all know (and love) Swedish brand COS for its unrelenting combination of form and function, with clean lines and minimal unnecessary details. The brand holds its own in the menswear, womenswear and kidswear categories, and has dabbled in homeware and art installations through collaborations over the years. This year, COS will receive a menswear honour by way of the 94th Pitti Uomo.
It has been announced that COS will make a special guest appearance at the biannual trade show in June. The brand will be joined by previously announced designers Craig Green and Roberto Cavalli for the spring/summer 2019 season. COS makes fashion history as the first ever fast-fashion brand to present a collection at Pitti Uomo, a tradeshow that is mostly associated with more traditional menswear savoir faire.
Titled ‘Soma’, the capsule collection will consist of menswear essentials crafted using traditional methods and new techniques. As the lookbook images suggest, the collection employs that familiar and well-loved COS aesthetics, coupled with lightweight fabrications and a balanced sense of design.
The Pitti Uomo presentation won’t be a typical runway presentation. COS has collaborated with British choreographer Wayne McGregor to convey the capsule collection’s form and function to full effect.
“Playfully exploring the COS collection with a mindfulness and fresh awareness of the wearer, we will create a specifically commissioned work by subverting these everyday gestures alongside the designs. We will appropriate everyday movement and transform it into new fictions, as Company Wayne McGregor dancers inhabit the COS collection infused by their own individual physical signatures,” McGregor explained.
COS has previously worked with students from Codarts Rotterdam in a dance short for its autumn/winter 2016 magazine. The short, filmed by Mark Peckmezian, took on COS’ use of navy blue for that particular season and were reinterpreted in self-expressive motion by student dancers.
Unlike its sister brand H&M, COS has held little importance in previewing its collections through runway presentations. When the brand decides to do so, the focus has always centred on the theme and design of the collection, and set alongside another artform. In its first fashion presentation in Asia, COS enlisted the help of Hong Kong-based architect André Fu—of The Fullerton Bay and Andaz Singapore fame—to construct a zen garden-like installation in Hong Kong for it’s autumn/winter 2015 collection. The presentation at the 94th Pitti Uomo might just call for more in the future.
COS’ managing director Marie Honda conveyed to The Business of Fashion: “We haven’t got a set-in-stone strategy for [future] runway shows and presentations, but we would say that we have potential in all areas to expand further.”
The COS ‘Soma’ capsule collection presentation in collaboration with Wayne McGregor and Company Wayne McGregor, will be live-streamed on cosstores.com.