When, at the fall/winter 2020 menswear shows back in January, we started seeing not just hints of red but rather complete looks in rich shades of ruby, wine, vermillion and claret, we knew this was a trend to take note of. It's not often a single colour palette dominates an entire season's collections, but here it was parading down the runways at AMI, Berluti, Givenchy and MSGM. This trend requires no explanation but does need a warning: this is not for the faint of heart.
From left: Giorgio Armani; H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red; AMI Alexandre Mattiusi; Swatch Ruberalda; Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute; MSGM; Franck Muller Cintree Curvex Master Banker Asia Exclusive; Red Army Red Carbon; Breitling Endurance Pro; Berluti.
FORM & FUNCTION
From combat boots and hardware to utilitarian pockets and straps, one of the fall/winter season's biggest trends took us back to basics. It's not the first time we've seen adventure- and outerwear inform streetwear, but what we're beginning to witness is a complete dismantling of the traditional barriers between the genres of dressing so that we're likely to wear the same garment on the slopes as we are the streets. It certainly makes knowing what to wear a whole lot easier.
From left: Craig Green; Bell & Ross BR 03-92 HUD; Fendi; Fossil Limited Edition FB-GMT Dual-Time; Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 5015; Chalayan; Giorgio Armani; Cartier Santos de Cartier; Corum Lab 03 Damascus Steel; Fendi; Breitling Avenger Chronograph 45 Night Mission.
ALL THAT GLITTERS
The message at the heart of this trend is that men can dress up to, according to some of the fashion industry's trendsetting designers, as they sprinkled their garments with crystals and sequins to give them extra sparkle. Kim Jones, the artistic director of Dior Men, perhaps most brilliantly captured that notion with his intricately bejewelled coats, worn with opera gloves and jewellery, but it was also seen at Balmain, Lanvin and Loewe. Just as well, then, that many of our favourite timepieces naturally glisten under the light.
From left: Valentino; Blancpain Villeret Quantieme Complet 6654; Dior Men; Cartier Pasha de Cartier; Breguet Marine Haute Joaillerie 9509 Poseidonia; Hermes Arceau L'heure; Balmain; IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Boutique Edition; Loewe.
LUXE IN LEATHER
Not content merely with a jacket, leather made its way into just about every garment this season. Whether at Salvatore Ferragamo, where overalls, t-shirts and boiler suits were crafted from butter-soft leather, or at Fendi and Berluti, where leather blazers accompanied leather trousers, bags and caps, too. From top to toe, the strap of your watch should be no exception in embracing this trend.
From left: Alexander McQueen; Montblanc Heritage Manufacturer Pulsograph; Vacheron Constantin Fifty-Six Self-Winding; Radon's Captain Cook; Wooyoungmi; Panerai Luminor Marina; Salvatore Ferragamo; Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control; Franck Muller Cintree Curvex Master Banker Asia Exclusive.