On the third day of Paris Men’s Fashion Week, Alexandre Mattiussi brought the theatrics with a tailored wardrobe at Ami Paris; Yusuke Takahashi drew inspiration from the wind for Issey Miyake Men; Virgil Abloh paid tribute to Michael Jackson at Louis Vuitton; and Dries Van Noten showed chic belted outerwear alongside tie-dye prints.
Read our succinct 10-word reviews below for all you need to know from each show. For the full bottle, listen to the audio review while clicking through the gallery of runway images. Whether you dip and dash, or stay and savour, these reviews are for you to use and enjoy as you please. Oui, c’est bon. De rien!
Remember to come back every day for the latest action from Paris Men’s Fashion Week AW19.
AMI PARIS: FRENCH FLAIR
Designer: Alexandre Mattiussi
10-word review: Dapper dudes sporting fedoras and dripping with insouciant French flair.
Favourite look: Alexandre Mattiussi usually creates another world when creating his runway set—last season it was a wheat field, and the year prior, a Parisian rooftop—so when we entered the Théâtre National de Chaillot in Trocadero, greeted with rows of seats demarcated with floor to ceiling camel curtains, it seemed rather… traditional. But it was all a set up before the grand finale. During the final walk, the curtains were pulled back to reveal the Eiffel Tower in the near distance; the sun breaking through the clouds to illuminate the room just as the last model (peroxide blonde Soo Joo Park) left the runway. Talk about drama. Chic yet powerful. Which is also an apt summation of the Ami autumn/winter 2019 show. Favourite look? Exit 24 with that wheat turtleneck worn under a checked blouson and paired with loose camel trousers, all topped off with a black fedora. Obsessed. Must also mention the mint green outerwear, especially the belted Casentino wool mac in look 16. Tailoring with a louche French flair.
Favourite accessory: Needless to say, those black wool felt fedoras routinely worn by models. As an avid fedora wearer, my advice is to bookend your headwear with a matching shoe colour—for example, follow Mattiussi’s styling and anchor your black fedora with black brogues or boots. Dapper. Dude.
ISSEY MIYAKE MEN: FEELING THE WIND
Designer: Yusuke Takahashi
10-word review: A jubilant collection with colourful brushstrokes inspired by the wind.
Favourite look: That tone-on-tone look of exit 15 consisting of a grey suit covered by this tactile collarless coat panelled with vertical strips of frayed wool that flapped and swayed with every step. An embodiment of ‘feeling the wind’, which was the theme and inspiration for the show. For those who want a shot of colour—as is the Issey Miyake way—then try on the blood orange blazer with kinetic lemon yellow brush strokes in look 25, worn with a matching crew neck tee, and grounded by classic black trousers.
Favourite accessory: Those plimsolls in look 33 brought to life with colour-blocked segments of yellow, magenta and hot pink. Jubilant footwear to give you freedom and energy.
LOUIS VUITTON: STARTING SOMETHING
Designer: Virgil Abloh
10-word review: National flags to show unity as a Michael Jackson tribute.
Favourite look: For Virgil Abloh’s second outing for Vuitton, he turned to Michael Jackson as a point of reference. But despite the show invitation coming with a pair of white bedazzled gloves, there was not a white glove in sight. Instead, Abloh turned to the unifying power of Jackson’s music and closed his collection with an ensemble of leather accessories and exits sporting national flags. Heal the world. Make it a better place.
However, for our favourite look, it was exit 37—a translation of the historic LV monogram canvas into a collarless zip-up blouson that came with three LV rectangular pouchettes affixed to the front like pockets. A clever continuation of Abloh’s self-invented term of ‘accessomorphosis’ from spring/summer 2019 that fuses ready-to-wear with accessories.
Favourite accessory: That black Keepall in look 47 draped with dangling national flags from around the world. Iconically Vuitton yet, in keeping with Abloh’s three percent rule of changing only three percent of a normative item in order to present something new, was a clever way to reference the King of Pop without being obvious. Bravo.
DRIES VAN NOTEN: RETURN TO ELEGANCE
Designer: Dries van Noten
10-word review: Covetable wardrobe of tight tailoring, belted outerwear and tie-dye prints.
Favourite look: Chic is back gents. Not that it ever really went away. Sure, with the onslaught of all things sportswear/athleisure/streetwear, you’d be pardoned for thinking that dressing with poise and precision—instead of panache and punch—was well and truly dead. Not so. It remained at the likes of Ralph Lauren, carried on at houses like Ermenegildo Zegna and, of course, lingered on at cerebral designers like Dries Van Noten. Now, it has returned with force for autumn/winter 2019. Just take a look at Prada in Milan last week, the fact that Off-White opened with three shirt-and-tie looks, and last night’s Raf Simons’ outing that had everyone salivating for full-length overcoats.
Over at Dries Van Noten, it was a cavalcade of covetable tailoring—from tight peak-lapel DBs paired with flared languid trousers, to belted pea coats—it was a masterclass in class. There were so many pieces and ensembles we want to own, but if push came to shove, we’re swiping our cards for that belted grey leather shirt jacket in look 14 paired with an A-line trouser; passable in our Singapore clime (indoors, of course), and a stylish outdoor separate when we venture away from the equator.
Favourite accessory: Technically not an accessory, but take a closer look at that opening pleated trouser that comes with a built-in belt and a generously cut leg that’s finished with truncated hem. Pair it with a simple white T-shirt and you’ll look devastatingly elegant. There’s a lesson here folks: you don’t have to shout to grab attention.
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