The Bottega Veneta fall/winter 2019 combined men's and women's show is one of the most anticipated for the season. Why? It is the debut collection for creative director Daniel Lee; the 32-year-old British designer and graduate from Central Saint Martins was most recently the director of ready-to-wear design at Céline—that's right, #oldceline under the guidance of Phoebe Philo. And given the gorgeous bags that he unveiled for spring/summer 2019 (the first hint of what to expect from the young Brit), everyone is expecting him to be the #newceline; that is, Kering group's answer to the void left in the industry (for covetable and cerebral fashion) with the departure of Philo.
Swipe through the gallery above for all the men's and women's looks from the Bottega Veneta fall/winter 2019 show. For the full report, listen to the audio review below. Just click 'listen in browser'.
Designer: Daniel Lee
10-word show review: Intrecciato as chain mail-like armour with high combat leather boots.
Favourite look: Get ready for a bolder, more modern, Bottega Veneta. Under the auspices of former creative director, Tomas Maier, the menswear was classic and considered. Under the direction of new designer Daniel Lee, the silhouettes are boxier and the detailing (especially on the leather; a house signature) has been amped up. There's a new energy (as seen in the leather moto jackets and trousers in looks 10 and 13); a creative re-interpretation of the signature intrecciato weave as square quilting (most obvious on the women's looks of 2, 3, 6 and 11) as well as a chain mail-like armour (through a looped tab construction to create coats as seen in women's looks 23, 25 and 41; also available for men, but used as a under layer in look 33); and new contemporary shapes (just check out the slouchy cut-out knitwear in looks 10, 16 and 20).
But my favourite ensemble goes to exit 33—an all-black look consisting of a hooded leather parka (with a drawstring waist) worn over the chain mail-like tab leather coat (fashion as armour), paired with straight-cut trousers and all anchored with leather brogues finished with an angular sole. Resolutely masculine, and a wonderful tiering of hem lines. Sold.
Favourite accessory: Those high combat leather boots with an ankle strap and in-built shin guard. Continuing with the ready-to-wear theme, it's fashion as armour. It's fashion to kick literal ass.