"I feel that as a designer, you have a responsibility to push things forward and try to make something new. It is exciting to work with the technical expertise and heritage of Moncler to develop new ways of interpreting their traditional feather down," says British designer Craig Green.
As one of the original members of the Moncler Genius project, Green is definitely no stranger to conceptualising innovative uses for Moncler's technical down material. The most recently released 5 Moncler Craig Green collection marks the sixth collaborative effort between the two, including two seasons of Moncler C, a capsule project done prior to Moncler Genius' launch. For Green, it's been a brilliant opportunity to continuously expound on the creative partnership.
"Feather down technology is a very specialised garment construction—there are many limitations but also many possibilities, which when combined, makes the process of developing a collection really exciting. Moncler is very free and encouraging about how you choose to interpret each project and [is] open to new ideas and proposals," Green explains. True enough; if one looks at what's been produced by each collaborator under Moncler Genius thus far, the range is nothing short of expansive. Each series manipulates the material in forms that have yet to be conceived by Moncler and perhaps would not even have been possible without such partnerships.
5 Moncler Craig Green has had quite a signature look from the start, owed by Green's instantly recognisable utilitarian aesthetic. Fabric straps and roped details (both functional and decorative), voluminous shapes that distort the human body, sculptural constructions and a penchant for quilting are some of the design tropes that Green has imbued into his Moncler Genius project. He tells us that the outcomes remain different for both outputs—while Craig Green and 5 Moncler Craig Green share similar starting points surrounding themes of protection and functionality, they're then "pushed, reconstructed and developed alongside the other ideas and concepts within the collection".
"We wanted to create the lightest outerwear possible and so it was about exploring new technical construction and materials."
Previous outings have seen Green interpret puffer jackets into various forms, including in 2019 where they resembled upright sleeping bags. The collection takes a 180-degree turn this time around with a play on translucency and lightness; the human body takes control and creates different volumes and shapes, as opposed to the garments affecting the change. At a glance, a good half of 5 Moncler Craig Green 2020 can be likened to life rafts crafted in safety hues that when worn, create visually interesting contrasts as the wearer's skin colour affects the translucent nature of the material at play.
"We wanted to create the lightest outerwear possible and so it was about exploring new technical construction and materials. The micro ripstop nylon gives the illusion of being fragile and delicate but actually provides a high level of protection," Green explains. "We started with the idea of everything being a flat volume until you get inside, and the body creates the shape." It's a process that he goes on to explain is similar to how a down jacket is constructed: a garment that starts out as a flat piece before being injected with down feathers to form the typical quilted bulges that we're all familiar with.
Ultimately, the idea for every 5 Moncler Craig Green collection has been about pushing the boundaries of what protection and functionality mean in luxury fashion. While the results tend to often form exaggerated silhouettes, there's no doubting their ability to protect wearers from external and natural elements—the very reason why Moncler exists. And at the same time, they change the perception of protection from just being a function-first concept to one that uses technology to create unique and wearable fashion.
"I have always loved garments that have a purpose and allow you to work or do things whilst wearing them—there is beauty in the idea of something that is both comfortable and functional. I think that is my interpretation of luxury, and something I see as a big part of Moncler and what they do," Green expresses. And we couldn't agree more.
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