At Dior Men autumn/winter 2021, ceremonial uniforms were the point of reference. Just like the longstanding artistry of haute couture, the uniforms have held significant importance in the military and are still being used till today. Artistic director Kim Jones used that to connect the two worlds, blending the masculine aspect of militaristic values with the softer components of couture.
Then there's the seasonal collaborations with contemporary artists that Jones has championed since the beginning of his appointment. Autumn/winter 2021 saw Scottish painter Peter Doig imbuing some of his works as prints and embellishments to a host of ready-to-wear and accessories. And in some cases, Jones took reference from Doig's works and fashioned them into looks ('Two Trees' by Doig informed the use of skull caps in the collection as well as the colours used in a look).
It has been three years for Jones at Dior Men. And it's almost scary how consistently great his collections have been every single time. There's a running theme but they're all constantly being updated and renewed such that each one is still different from the other. That right there, is unbridled talent.
Look and feel: It's art-meets-military, defined by embroidered stand-collar jackets and side-striped trousers, as well as Doig's artworks that at times, resembled military camouflage. Headgear by Stephen Jones, made a return for autumn/winter 2021, replacing military caps and helmets for sleek berets, puffy fedoras and crocheted skull caps. This is an army we could get behind.
Favourite looks: Looks 5 and 10's assemblage of a jumpsuit and an anorak jacket topped off with two Dior Men bags—all decorated in Doig's camouflage-esque print—were a fantastic way of reworking camouflage. They're incredibly stylish as a set but would also be just as impactful as separates. We're also loving the aubergine bomber jacket in look 26 that's designed with a hidden hook closure and the chic flair of a scarf collar. Top marks goes to closing look 45 that had most of the elements of the collection (save for the Doig prints) and then layered over a plush single-breasted coat embellished with a single brooch. No army has ever looked this good.
Favourite accessories: There's absolutely no functional purpose for the crocheted skull caps but they'd make for a great way to add a dose of glamour without being unnecessarily ostentatious. Without a doubt, the mini Saddle crossbody bags (looks 6 and 35) rank high on our list of bags we'd want to have now. They're also equipped with a beautifully embroidered strap so we're betting on a hefty sum for a piece. For something a touch simpler, the collection's array of belts—shiny silver buckles with Christian Dior-branded bands—would be a great start.