At Ermenegildo Zegna XXX, the pandemic has become a source of inspiration for artistic director Alessandro Sartori. If the spring/summer 2021 presentation was a fashion runway that ended with a more in-depth explanation of some key looks, the autumn/winter 2021 collection was presented in a short film format.
The film saw the interweaving of two locales—the outdoors (surrounded by concrete buildings) and the indoors (depicted as a blown-up dollhouse of sorts). It's quite a literal showcase of how the autumn/winter 2021 collection has been designed to work in this new pandemic-stricken lifestyle that we've adopted (and perhaps will continue to do so for the next couple of years).
"We all are experiencing a new reality concerned with new needs, which lead us to previously unseen lifestyles and attitudes. It is precisely at a time like this, when everything is under discussion, that we, at Zegna, have decided to (Re)set. We have looked at our roots to (Re)interpret our style codes and (Re)tailor the modern man. Outdoor and indoor come together and a new way of dressing takes hold, where comfort and style blend to create a new aesthetic," expresses Sartori.
Look and feel: Sartori may have taken some notes from 2020's collaborator Jerry Lorenzo of Fear of God. The Ermenegildo Zegna XXX autumn/winter 2021 saw for the first time, the inclusion of female models wearing 11 out of the 51 looks presented. It may not be an outright signal that the brand is moving towards being genderless, but rather, an indication that as much as Ermenegildo Zegna XXX is designed with a man in mind, there's absolutely nothing that's stopping any of the pieces from being adopted by women.
It's an expression that echoed quite strongly in the autumn/winter 2021 collection. The (Re)tailoring approach that Sartori has conceptualised resulted in generously cut and slouchy silhouettes, marked by the use of fabrics that looked soft to the touch. There was nary anything that was even remotely close-fitted; these would be clothes one could definitely lounge comfortably at home in and look sufficiently put together outside.
Favourite looks: It's no mean feat evoking a sense of stylish comfort through visuals alone, but that's what Sartori has successfully done for autumn/winter 2021. And that also means, that we're having a tough choice deciding on our favourites. Starting off with the simplest combinations, looks 1, 5 and 23 with their oversized polo sweaters matched tone-on-tone with wide cut trousers proved that a colour-coordinated look is always sophisticated, no matter how simple the look is.
Having said that, some of the looks that have got us excited would have to be the single-hued ones. Looks 3, 16, 18 and 43 exemplified the kind of no-brainer, effortless combinations that make for brilliant monochromatic looks, with a play on textures and depths. Then there's look 16 that showcased the deft use of knit and suede panelling to create a jumper that's bound to be the perfect companion on a cold winter's night.
Favourite accessories: There's no doubt that the bedroom slipper-loafer hybrids that were worn on every look drove the point that the Ermenegildo Zegna XXX autumn/winter 2021 collection was anything but stuffy. We're also leaning towards the bar-handled rectangular tote bag (seen in the short film at the 9:49 mark) that would make for the perfect addition to a (Re)tailored wardrobe.
