As the world unfolded in its natural chaos over the last two years, Dior Men's artistic director Kim Jones and ERL’s Eli Russel Linnetz found each other via DMs and somehow managed to come together to give us one of the most well-informed time capsule collections that's ever been. Equal parts couture, contemporary, and covetable, the Spring 2023 line definitely counts as one of Jones' best works for the Maison.
A multi-hyphenate trained in the art of film and now a LVMH Prize Finalist, Linnetz has already worked with the likes of Kanye West, Lady Gaga and Teyana Taylor prior to his fashion work at ERL. The brand is also well-loved by popular celebrities including Dua Lipa, the Biebers, A$AP Rocky and a still-growing list of A-lister friends. It's with this multi-dimensional perspective of creative production that Jones, with Linnetz, is able to enamour us with his latest offerings.
While the show was set in and took inspiration from Venice (Linnetz's hometown), the two designers started working together by looking at archival material from the year Linnetz was born. At the time, in 1991, Dior was helmed by Gianfranco Ferré, known for his maximalist, opulent and architectural silhouettes — a take on the Maison's codes that was fresh for both Jones and Linnetz to work off of.
The result? Some really interesting sartorial similarities (i.e. padding and quilting) that came out of Linnetz's multidisciplinary design sensibilities. Also, yet another reason why Jones continues to lead the luxury streetwear wave today. The iconic director can seemingly share a stage with anyone, but proves time and again, that no matter what collaboration, he'll never lose the essence of Dior Men by Kim Jones.
Look and feel: Parting an electric blue sea on Windward Avenue, the show mirrored a grey-to-sunset-coloured gradation that elevated the presence of Californian palms and beaches, christening what was also emblazoned on the chests of some knit sweaters—"California Couture". From padded suits made of ocean-recovered polyester (paying homage to Ferré) and Dior’s beloved grey (a nod to Kim Jones’ first collection for the house and a take on the school blazers worn by one Fresh Prince down the road in Bel-Air), we saw puffers with ERL's signature yin-yang design transition the overall palette from chic to the cute pastels and neon hues of skater-apropos—oozing a gender-fluid appeal.
Inside out bar jackets and roomy trousers make for ideal working-from-anywhere attires while 'ugly-Christmas-sweateresque' jumpers and knit scarves juxtapose board shorts in true SoCal fashion. This is a place where winters are still summers anyway. And to tie them all down, Dior's cannage grounded the collection by featuring on chunky (and also padded) sneakers.
Favourite looks: Whilst I'm particularly fond of Look 14's paddle-pop puffer and the maximalist wonder of Look 2's crystal-encrusted silk taffeta shorts, Look 25 is what takes the cake. A simple corduroy cord suit, a coat and a striking pair of fuchsia sneakers, this is how luxury streetwear inherited its parent styles and became something else on its own. It was as much Savile Row as it is sophisticated, street and millennial.
The glorious beach blanket or Hollywood royalty opera cape from Look 34 is also a must-mention. Not only does it bring to mind the iconic A$AP Rocky x Met Gala moment, it also is in itself a representation of the creative chaos ERL's garments revel in. Only this time remade by Dior's ateliers, at Linnetz's first runway show. What a dream.
Favourite accessories: Hair may not be an accessory perse, but thanks to hair stylist Guido Palau, the spiky 90s surfer-blonde 'dos and coloured buzz cuts were hypnotising to say the least. With a tinge of anime and a bit of punk, it successfully foreshadowed the explosion of colour in a very Gen-Z approved way. I also liked how the mini Saddle bags were used as neck-pieces in some of the looks, as well as how the skate-inspired shoes looked washed out, almost as if exposed in the sun (or worn by the beach) for too long.
All in all, a collection to remember but most importantly, hard to forget.
