Creative director Silvia Venturini Fendi has been deftly crafting an evolved image of the Fendi man—elegant with a sense of newfound assured masculinity. Silvia's Fendi man is not one that discards traditions but rather, adapts them to make them make sense in an ever-changing world where masculinity isn't just one thing.
For autumn/winter 2022, Silvia further challenged that notion with perhaps her most gender-blurring collection yet. The season's neo-dandies continued on the tropes of collection's past, pairing wide-leg bermudas with delicate silk knee-high socks and accessories galore in the form of pearl necklaces and bracelets, as well as bags in more shrunken variations than we've ever seen them before in a Fendi men's collection. More feminine nuances took shape as Mary Jane-inspired footwear and free-flowing trousers constructed with half-skirts that gave the illusion of freedom of movement down the runway.
The Fendi O'Lock chain motif was the Fendi signature du jour. Refreshed as a new monogram, the motif was grand in its presence. On the autumn/winter 2022 menswear jumpers, the O'Lock chain monogram was translated as intarsia, while plush etchings of it appeared beautifully on shearling outerwear—all examples of the traditional and skilled craftsmanship of Fendi made contemporary.
Look and feel: There was an overall sense of rebelliousness that's not exactly loud and obvious. A clear rejection of traditional menswear codes was apparent in the clavicle- and chest-baring cutouts seen on a number of the looks—almost like a continuation of the house's spring/summer 2022 menswear collection. But at the same time, they weren't too over-the-top such that the collection would feel intimidating.
There were healthy doses of plays in proportions that made the collection interesting from a design perspective. Trousers for example, were constructed asymmetrically with the inner hem cutting just above the topline of shoes while the outer hem fell freely at a more traditional length. Collarless and lapel-less constructions (an element that's set to be an autumn/winter 2022 menswear trend) added on to the sensuality of the entire collection too.
However, the final tuxedo look—perhaps as purposefully included as a form of contextual reference—did seem a bit out of place among the more contemporary versions of the neo-dandy.
Favourite looks: Look 22 gave off quite a classic neo-dandy look with its shrunken suiting but paired with the collection's keyhole-neck jumper over a checkered shirt. The simple addition of a lapel brooch made the whole look pretty spiffy too. Then there's look 24—a harmoniously paired peak-lapel houndstooth suit (with those skirt-trousers) and Fendi Baguette bag rendered in the exact same design. And for something a bit of a throwback to classic Fendi, look 47's all-black ensemble featured a cape disguised as a typical suit blazer that's layered over a silk shirt decorated with the O'Lock monogram for added gravitas.
But if you're looking for an easy look to slip into and incorporate into your own wardrobe, look 6's no-fuss combination of an oversized overshirt, roomy printed trousers, and sporty sneakers would be one to gravitate towards.
Favourite accessories: Right off the bat, the jewellery in the autumn/winter 2022 menswear collection were some of the best thus far from Fendi. Once again, the O'Lock motif took centrestage and was fixed alongside hefty pearls on necklaces and bracelets as seen on looks 4, 18 and 25.
The Mary Jane brogues in the collection though are perhaps the most interesting. The design was amped up with the incorporation of a wristwatch on just one side of the footwear—right at the Mary Jane strap. It's a kooky design element that will definitely be a conversation starter.
And while fashion brands are increasingly taking part in the metaverse, Fendi decided to channel that drive into new frontiers through functional real-world accessories. In a collaboration with Ledger, a company specialising on secure USB storage wallets for cryptocurrency, the autumn/winter 2022 menswear collection included miniature versions of the O'Lock and Baguette as luxury tech accessories meant to hold the Ledger Nano X.
More Milan Fashion Week Men's AW22 reviews:
Day One: Zegna AW22
Day Two: Dolce&Gabbana AW22
Day Three: Tod's AW22
Day Three: Prada AW22
