It's as though ever since the spring/summer 2021 season, artistic director of Fendi accessories and menswear Silvia Venturini Fendi, has felt reinvigorated with respect to her design capabilities. Fendi's menswear arm has never been more relevant and a visual sign of the times than it has ever been since then. There's been a somewhat child-like approach that's irreverent without straying too far from what we've been familiar with and it has been incredibly refreshing to witness.
"How you see things—and from where you see them—has never been more important," says Silvia. For the Italian fashion house's spring/summer 2022 menswear collection, she took that philosophy as a cue to be even more experimental with her approach.
Look and feel: The candy-coloured sky that Silvia was familiar with—as seen from the Fendi headquarters—informed the colour palette of the spring/summer 2022 menswear collection. At the same time, it translated into the collection's airy quality. Lightweight fabrications were key, with shirting crafted loose out of silk while cashmere intarsia jumpers created volumes that flounced with every movement.
A monochromatic styling ran through the entire collection but was broken up at parts with prints and patchworked effects. Silvia dug into the Fendi archives and recovered an illustrated map of Rome that became the spring/summer 2022 menswear collection's print du saison, referred to as Fendi Land. In other instances, intarsia techniques and contrasting fabrications provided complementary tonal combinations.
Favourite looks: There was a playful experimentation of proportion and scale this time around. At its most severe, Silvia slashed outerwear and tops right at the torso. While that may be something that would probably result in a few stares out in the real world, there were some combinations—especially those that involved cropped tops worn under regular cut jackets—that weren't as explicit and were styled really well, such as looks 2 and 24.
Look 23's asymmetrical jumper paired with beige straight-cut trousers was a chic proposal of one of the season's best knitwear looks yet. We like that the cut of the jumper allowed for hints of the belt to show without having to do much. And the overall pairing of gold-toned hardware and accessories was irresistible too. What could also potentially be our go-to look for summer 2022 was look 20 and its combination of a jumper with the collection's printed shorts designed with super functional cargo pockets—a simple, stylish fit.
Favourite accessories: The iconic Baguette was interpreted in newer ways for men. We especially liked the more dainty expressions—a design trope that Silvia first established in spring/summer 2021—that took the form of necklaces (look 6) and waist chains (looks 2 and 43) that added simple accents. And for those looking for more practical iterations, the season's Baguette crossbody bags were reworked in perspex, with larger messenger versions done in soft tone-on-tone leathers.
There was a collaboration with swimwear brand Arena that resulted in a series of goggles. They were done in equally pastel hues and featured lenses splashed with the FF logo for a more fashion-forward take.
But what really grabbed our attention were the luggage-shaped bags. Available in a variation of sizes, they were constructed in either leather or printed FF logo mesh on a convex body that resembled a sort of fish-eye effect. We're gravitating towards the crossbody options as seen in looks 1 and 5 that would be perfect for everyday use.