Making his return to the fashion calendar, Fumito Ganryu unveiled his eponymous label as part of Pitti Uomo’s ‘Designer Project’ in June last year. While many questioned his departure from the Comme umbrella, for Fumito Ganryu, it was never about beginnings or endings. But rather, the space in between the two. It's an ethos that has always been part of his design language; for his past label, we saw him masterfully meld both streetwear and workwear influences into wearable yet highly considered garments.
For his own label, Ganryu continues the celebration of the in-between. Think futuristic clothes that don't look out of place in the present and aren't defined by gender. To be clear, the goal is not a pursuit of unisex clothing, but rather, in Ganryu's own words, a "non-sex" collection. He drew from his womenswear pattern-making training under Junya Watanabe, as well as his experience with menswear patterns under GANRYU, to express both forms in a single garment.
It is an ideology that's cumulated in his spring/summer 2019 collection. With ‘water’ as a theme for the collection, it is a metaphorical bridge between the urban landscapes and the great outdoors. The result is a collection that turns waterproof fabrics such as neoprene, into a fluid and functional collection. They are clothes that function like performance wear, but is far removed from the trope of athleisure. From oversized robes and water-resistant trucker jackets to suit jackets in neoprene and beautiful mix-fabric shirtings. The pieces are familiar, yet the infusion of small changes to the silhouette and fabric choice is refreshing. Our favourite from the collection is his interpretation of the baggy trousers—more languid than sloppy, and crucially, inspires you to move in them.
Yes, there are still remnants of his previous design oeuvre in his current offering. In an interview with Business of Fashion, Ganryu mentioned: “Initially, I wanted to make a drastic change, but I am not there yet. It’s been a very intense year since I left, so I am also a little disappointed that I did not have enough time to move far away from my previous work". He further elaborated that "you will find enough of a departure in this collection. Fashion is about evolution and change, and I welcome that because evolution allows me to strengthen my design philosophy.”
Fumito Ganryu spring/summer 2019 collection is available at Surrender stores.