The master of unstructured tailoring, Giorgio Armani, made a return to a live runway show to close Milan Fashion Week Men's for spring/summer 2022. After a series of digital runway shows that were audience-less for the past year—the brand was one of the first to quickly pivot to digital shows—the Armani headquarters at Via Borgonuovo became the site for a characteristically Giorgio Armani collection.
The show also marked the first time in 18 years that the headquarters housed a runway show. And in some ways, was a reiteration of how the spring/summer 2022 menswear collection cemented the brand's core values and signature aesthetics, while at the same time, adapted for the times that we're living in.
The suit is constantly being reworked and manipulated in a myriad of ways—no traditional menswear designer is ready to fully let it go. As one of the foremost authority of Italian men's tailoring, Armani has continuously evolved his interpretation of it as well. And when Armani does, you best sit up and take notes.
Look and feel: Lightness was key for Giorgio Armani spring/summer 2022 and it's something that Armani does exceptionally well. As with any other Giorgio Armani collection, the colour scheme kicked off with the brand's signature use of navy before progressing towards the season's more upbeat tones and then graduating to greys and whites. The Giorgio Armani man is one that has a pragmatic sense when it comes to style—classic, timeless and with splashes of trend-driven sensibilities in between.
The season's tailoring was spliced. Suits barely resembled traditional silhouettes as they were broken up then re-styled in parts and hardly ever together. Waistcoats found home with oversized silk T-shirts matched with bermudas or (in one of our favourite combinations from the collection) worn by itself as a sleeveless shirt paired with printed trousers.
There was an unequivocally sporty feel about the collection but one that didn't resort to pairing sneakers with everything and anything. That's the Armani magic.
Favourite looks: For a more upfront option of a suit, there's look 8 that was a lapel-less interpretation that cut quite high up so that only a hint of a tie could peek through. At certain glances, the fit resembled a jumpsuit thanks to its pattern—an optical illusion that further steered it away from typical-suiting territory.
There were quite a few silky looks paired with printed bottoms in the middle of the line-up. We're gravitating towards look 51 combination of a safari jacket-shirt hybrid done in a brilliant bronze and worn with drawstring printed shorts for a breezy outfit that could easily transition from the boardwalk to dinner, no sweat.
Then there's the simplicity and utterly chic all-white pairing that's look 67 comprised of a long-sleeved camp-collar shirt matched with trousers hemmed with just a sliver of brown. Where would one wear such a pairing? Anywhere and everywhere if we had our way.