"Naturally, we are all keen on returning as quickly as possible to the irreplaceable warmth and fellowship of a fashion show with a live audience, but in the meantime, we need imagination to fortify our patience. With Cyril's creative staging, the evocative power of the space, and the interconnectivity that virtual reality allows, we are beginning to reinvent ways of being together," expresses artistic director of the Hermès men's universe, Véronique Nichanian.
For the second collaboration with director Cyril Teste, Hermès took us on a journey within the spiral staircase interior of Paris's Mobilier National—a government building designed by architect Auguste Perret. If spring/summer 2021's choreographed live film showed the behind-the-scenes aspect of a fashion show, this time around, it resembled almost like a walk-up apartment housing incredibly stylish individuals.
Both Teste and Nichanian most definitely elevated the experience for their sophomore effort. The film seemed more seamless (perhaps thanks to a lean setting with no 'backstage hands' on set) and offered multiple views at once that allowed for a far more engaging experience.
It'll be exciting to see what else the duo could come up with next should the collaboration continue on for another season. Hermès hasn't been known to be a digital-first luxury fashion house, but with this, its found something that it could call its own.
Look and feel: As most of the fashion designers that have released their autumn/winter 2021 collections thus far, Nichanian approached the collection as a merging of the outside and the inside. Comfort was key as the garments were designed with thoughtful details that would make transitioning from wearing them outside to lounging indoors as seamless as possible. Trousers were almost exclusively done in drawstring-waist styles and there was nary a piece that hugged the body tight.
Yet, that doesn't mean that the fabrications or treatments were any less luxurious. Supple leathers took on multiple forms–from decadent blousons to silk-like T-shirts—while cashmere knits made up quite a bulk of the collection's array of knitwear.
Favourite looks: Nothing beats an oversized jumper, especially one that's beautifully done in a sort of deconstructed argyle pattern (look 30), to quite comfortably lounge in. There's also the incredibly chic combination of a black leather T-shirt layered over a turtleneck, and worn with a pair of fleece trousers as seen on look 19—one can never go wrong in a monochromatic fit. But for something that's characteristic of the playful nature of Nichanian's Hermès menswear, look 14 captured that exceptionally well with an overshirt decorated with stacked pockets, tailored joggers, and vibrant sneakers.
Favourite accessories: First up, the haut à courroies (look 2) was updated in a wooly canvas and leather combination to suit the seasonal mood. The Galop Fourre-tout 48h bags were the ones that took on many iterations of tartan tweed panels with leather, further highlighting the use of tartan in the collection's ready-to-wear. As for the footwear, we were no doubt drawn to the fluorescent hues of the collection's sneakers (looks 1, 5 and 14) that complemented the rest of the collection's playful nature.