Out of all the fashion brands that have showcased (or teased) their men's spring/summer 2021 collections thus far, none have packed as much content as Loewe has. For 24 hours, the fashion house lined up an impressive array of digital content—one for every hour—to bring an all-encompassing experience to its spring/summer 2021 collection to audiences the world over.
The concept was a digital version of its Loewe show-in-a-box experience that editors worldwide were honoured with. The latter is Loewe's answer to interpreting the fashion show experience during this challenging time where non-essential travels are highly discouraged. In fact, creative director Jonathan Anderson first explored the concept for his own eponymous label earlier in the month.
It's no doubt a brilliant way of experiencing a fashion collection from a distance. Perhaps this could be a more sustainable approach to fashion shows in the near future—one that relies more on intentional education of a collection rather than the pomp and circumstance of a 15-minute runway presentation.
Look and feel: As described by Anderson in a video of him sharing some of the spring/summer 2021 highlights, the focus was on one technique per look. This allowed for the craft behind each look to take centrestage and the pieces themselves being instantly the focus. There's also the idea that each look should take sculptural forms on the mannequins; architecture is quite a central theme this time around. In many ways, Anderson manipulated the human form by adding volume to sleeves, ballooning a coat to a basic spherical shape, as well as playing around with drapes and pleats.
Favourite looks: The intricate basket-weaving artistry displayed by Spanish artist Idoia Cuesta in looks 7 and 27 is just fascinating to look at. The latter may prove useful in enforcing social distancing rules on crowded public transport. Look 24's ingenuity is equally remarkable. The patchwork leather crossbody bag doubles up as an actual leather jacket. Brilliant.
What's an incredibly wearable piece of art (and this editor's personal favourite) is the oversized jacquard jumper that features an interpretation of a painting by Paul Cadmus. The piece resembles a tapestry and the subject captures what Anderson constantly does at Loewe when it comes to ready-to-wear—a blurring and challenging of what menswear and masculinity is in the context of contemporary fashion.
But there's also the voluminous caped trench coat in look 9 that's truly a statement coat if we've ever seen one. The drapes are beautifully executed and add dramatic flair for anyone who needs a bit of that in their life.
Favourite accessories: While accessory 4 (the pineapple-shaped, basket-woven bag) is a mark of Loewe's creativity and humour, it could be a challenging piece to be toting around. The reworked Puzzle bag for spring/summer 2021 (accessory 1) however is one that strikes the perfect balance of craft and practicality. Dubbed the 'Puzzle Knot', it's the first update to the beloved classic that Anderson introduced during his first Loewe collection for the spring/summer 2015 season. The added knot feature is a beautiful juxtaposition to the clean architecture of the bag.
But if it's something along the lines of Loewe's basket-woven pieces that you're after, the small Craft tote (accessory 5) is a subtle and sturdy option. Embellished with knotted strips of leather and topped with a thin shoulder strap—all matched tone for tone in tan—it's a quiet statement piece for an added artisanal touch to any outfit.
The Flow runner (shoe 2) is the latest sneaker addition to the Loewe family. The shape and silhouette follows closely to that of the Ballet runner (shoe 1), a sneaker that was first introduced in 2019. The Flow runner is fitted with a more pronounced midsole and a rubber outsole that extends all the way to the heel counter. It's a more traditionally shaped sneaker but still retains that retro aesthetic of the Ballet runner. In short, we want one.
Hermès men's spring/summer 2021
Day one of PFW Online: Études, CMMN SWDN, Wooyoungmi, Y/Project and Berluti
Day two of PFW Online: HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE and Yohji Yamamoto
Day three of PFW Online: Juun.J, Casablanca, and Isabel Marant
Day five of PFW Online: Dior Men