It's little wonder now that fashion designers are clamouring for a sense of optimism and freedom from the funk that we've been in for the past year. At Loewe, the sentiment was realised through club-kid irreverence and a hedonistic exploration of nightlife for its spring/summer 2022 menswear collection.
German-born contemporary artist Florian Krewer influenced Loewe creative director Jonathan Anderson on the direction of the collection. "He shows me a world that is new and progressive," Anderson says. "He is an artist that I have found incredibly inspiring, and I think he's one of the most talented painters of his generation."
Krewer's paintings often depict characters that seem free and chaotic, in almost post-club settings in and around a cityscape. The colours that are used—blacks, whites, saturated pinks, purples and blues—helped inform the palette of the Loewe spring/summer 2022 menswear collection.
We don't know about you, but hitting the clubs is something we've been itching to do since they've been closed and nothing pretty much happens anymore after 10.30pm.
Look and feel: The tension between masculinity and femininity is an element that Anderson constantly explores in his work. For Loewe's spring/summer 2022 menswear collection, it was more apparent in the way that traditional notions of gender are blurred. Softly draped kaftan tops, wholly embellished coordinates, and silk and slinky knotted garments all alluded to a throwback to early club culture where gender binaries were non-existent—a sense of unbridled freedom of expression.
It's that sort of reference that's translated into the collection's striking highlighter hues (once again, a definitive trend for spring/summer 2022). Anderson wanted to replicate the backlighting on colours that was part of the clubbing experience (all those LED strobe lights; ah, such joy) by layering multiple different colours on top of each other to achieve the effect.
Cutouts were also used to underscore the underlying theme of the urge for human contact and intimate experiences. These were done on oversized jumpers that resembled sack dresses, sumptuous leather hoodies that ran down all the way to below the knees, as well as trompe l'œil effects on the collection's must-have jumpers.
Favourite looks: If the collection seemed like a chaotic convergence of colours and silhouettes, it's because it was. And brilliantly so. Our favourites include the more commercial pieces such as look 4's combination of a jumper trimmed with the collection's striking hues and layered effect, worn with dusty pink leather shorts and finished off with folded boots in fluorescent green. There was also an all-over print knit set (look 11) that instantly caught our eyes for its depictions of the human body but done so tastefully that hardly anyone would notice at a glance.
For true fans of Anderson's Loewe, there's a coat that's completely decorated with the Loewe Anagram (look 31 and 32). It's a celebration of the house's logo that was revived and reworked by Anderson and Parisian design studio M/M Paris, and one that looked beautiful in green and set against a black base.
Favourite accessories: There's a lot to love in terms of the accessories. First off, the iconic Puzzle bag was realised in a new shape that some (like this style director) would truly appreciate, especially if the rigidity of the original was something that hindered one from getting the bag. The Loewe spring/summer 2022 menswear collection introduced a Puzzle bag that's a softer and more pliable hobo version. It looked to be roomier too, which is always a plus.
For fans of the original Puzzle bag, there were newer bum bag iterations reimagined in the season's more brilliant pink and orange. These were seen in two sizes—small and mini—but generally still looked sufficiently well-sized despite their designations.
A series of Loewe Anagram-laden accessories were also part of the collection. Choose between the bum bag version or a sporty hiking bag-inspired backpack. We're leaning towards the latter because it reminded us of those that we once carried for school—now elevated and with classier details.
The collection's defining footwear is the aforementioned folded boots that come in an array of treatments and colours. While they're available in the complete range of the highlighter hues peppered throughout the collection, there were more muted variations in white-and-brown and black-and-white combinations. There were also the Loewe Anagram ones that would be perfect statement boots to complement any straight-up minimal outfit.