Illustrator Megan St Clair scoured through the autumn/winter 2020 menswear collections during Milan Fashion Week Men's, and did what she does best—dissecting her favourite looks through colours, silhouettes and interesting details.
Read her brief reviews of the shows and scroll through the illustrations in the gallery above to get a first-hand recap of some of London Fashion Week Men's autumn/winter 2020 season's promising showings.
Taking on the idea of rebirth in a collection which fused tailored classics and sportswear perfectly, Eastwood Danso yet again, brought his classic yet indulgently detailed staples back in an exploration of self. Adding to his effortlessly cool repertoire by introducing further accessories in the form of crossbody bags, while sustaining what he's known for in his Converse collaboration—this season presenting again a conceptual take on their classic silhouettes utilising the reintroduced 'Pro Leather'.
As they continued their renowned cut-away knits, duo Stefan Cooke (made up of the aforementioned and partner Jake Burt) advanced into autumn/winter 2020 with a Lee Jeans collaboration. This allowed new ways of creating their classic trompe-l'œil effects with laser printing on denim, and explored new avenues. The duo looked to the new decade, presenting this collection ‘The End’, as a chance to start the next chapter for the label. Whether that next chapter be through the slashed-neck outerwear or their development of accessories aligned with Cooke’s staple button link bag straps, it was a refreshing outlook.
Continuing her quest to educate and change the industry from the inside, Bethany Williams presented autumn/winter 2020 in collaboration with London's Magpie Project—a charity which supports women and children in temporary accommodation. Through illustrated prints, oversized sportswear and her staple hand-knits (knitted by her mother) they pieced together as a collection of hope and a celebration of motherhood, sisterhood, childhood and the family we choose.
Reflecting on life's challenges, Pronounce brought together a raging collection full to the brim with explorations of the norm—be that enlarged, twisted or transformed. From its oversized placements of pockets, detailed leather work and ambiguous prints depicting fire, clouds and water, the collection was a wonder for the senses, and one that felt fitting for current times.
In an exploration of heritage, Bianca Saunders launched autumn/winter 2020 as a dance. Literally. As models danced, wire ran through many of the garments noted as a way to depict how clothes captured movement when the pause button was pressed on a VHS tape of dancehall parties. Launching accessories for the first time, Bianca's staples shined on strong; yet again solidifying her as one to watch.
Taking pattern cutting to a geometric intricacy, Xander Zhou added his classic dystopian outlook to a large range of shirting, puffers, knits and more. The show itself felt half art performance, half ‘I need it now’ fashion show as it layered differing elements—from pixelated prints to slick two-piece knits. The final chapter was the section that grabbed me personally, in its weighty and structured outerwear, detail-led styling and colour palette.