lustrator Megan St Clair scoured through the spring/summer 2020 menswear collections during Milan Fashion Week Men's, and did what she does best—dissecting her favourite looks through colours, silhouettes and interesting details.
Read her brief reviews of the shows and scroll through the illustrations in the gallery above to get a first-hand recap of some of Milan Fashion Week Men's for the spring/summer 2020 season's promising showings.
Leafy green wasn’t just in the venue choice for Fendi, with a gardening reference running through the accessories (which included watering can bags), it seemed as though its watering the future to continue growing. With a significant earthy tone to its colour palette, Fendi’s cut-away knits gave a nod to industry newcomers Stefan Cooke. The camo vests layered upon crisp shirting, showed that a clean cut was possible amongst the depth of sport inspired looks we continue to see.
Playing twister with guests, Marni brought the ocean plastic pollution issue to the forefront as it built yet another immersive location to showcase what was a theatrical yet grounded take for spring/summer 2020. Through a millinery collaboration with artist Shalva Nikvashvili, Marni has officially brought the beret back. Francesco Risso engaged with the label’s power print roots to bring a fresh take on school boy knits, shirting and the oversized suiting which seems to be a running theme for the season.
Displaying the new collection beneath a motorway in Milan which circles the city, it certainly felt like a journey of simplicity with maximum effect—from the clean cut outerwear to the utilitarian pocket-clad fits, which coloured the bright white wide shot runway. A running neon pop which infiltrated the beachy, seaside colourscape of pastel blues gave the collection an oomph of youthfulness.
Accessories are what caught my eye amongst the rose tinted glasses of Versace—a lush selection of vinyl, leopard prints and bandana neck ties brought together the ‘90s vibe.
Ermenegildo Zegna XXX
The collection was a lesson in how to create clothing with the aim of being used, and reused. What we’d guess was taking inspiration from the show venue (a previous iron mill), a bruised colour story led throughout with highlights of rust, teal and pillar box red. Alongside a functional and impeccably cut collection, Zegna also repurposed existing waste products in nylon and wool, to create a fifth of the new collection! Not only was this a step forward in being more sustainable as a brand, it was a show of how these practices can be applied within a large-scale label.