If the Prada spring/summer 2021 womenswear collection was anything to go by, it seems like the modus operandi for co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons is to continue with the dual-dialogue approach. Simons being a fan of the brand since before his appointment, has added his own twists to some Prada classics. And that was what that was very apparent in Prada's autumn/winter 2021 menswear collection.
Rem Koolhaas and AMO conceptualised the showspace composed of multiple rooms. While they were empty and rather vast, they weren't necessarily cold or clinical, thanks to the use of brilliant hues and textured effects. The rooms underscored the direction that both Mrs Prada and Simons wanted to deliver—this collection was more about tactility and the feel of the clothes.
Look and feel: Ardent fans of both Mrs Prada and Simons would be able to tell where each co-creative director had their inputs. For Mrs Prada, it was evident in the use of those unmistakably Prada prints on everything from coat linings to the long johns (the defining garment of the entire collection). Simons's signature play of proportions were displayed to full effect as seen on the oversized coats.
The combination of the two clearly exemplified the relationship of the co-directorship. The long johns acted as the foundation layer for autumn/winter 2021—at times they stood alone in their full jacquard glory, and when layered under suiting as well as single-breasted coats, they're shown with outerwear sleeves hiked up to above the elbows (a trope that was last seen on Raf Simons spring/summer 2021).
Favourite looks: Look 20's five-layer ensemble was a stellar showcase of how Prada's prints (no matter the collection) could always work when layered atop of each other. Wearing five layers may be a tad excessive, but the look could be easily broken down. The trio of leather bombers that were designed with a Prada triangle pouch on the left sleeve (looks 25, 26 and 27) were the kinds of statement outerwear that would make for great style investments too. And lastly, the suited up looks with sleeves pushed all the way up, made for smart interpretations of what modern tailoring could be while still retaining the essence of a suit.
Favourite accessories: Only one accessory needs to be talked about: the gloves. Like some of the ready-to-wear pieces in the collection, the gloves were affixed with a Prada-branded pouch, instantly elevating the overall visual and doubling their functionality. If anything, they’d be perfect for storing cigarettes in the dead of winter.