This is Paul Andrew’s debut men’s show for Ferragamo as the brand’s newly appointed creative director. Previous outings were under the auspices of Guillaume Meilland—Meilland oversaw menswear while Andrew, as the women’s creative director, oversaw women’s—but both, as often revealed during interviews, really worked in tandem, producing both the men’s and women’s collections to be shown on the same runway.
So it begs the question: how will the men’s offering be different now that Andrew is the creative maestro? Meilland is still the men’s ready-to-wear design director, but with him reporting to Andrew (who has never really designed menswear in the past), does this mean that the design process is less collaborative? With Andrew having the final say, are the clothes more… feminine?
10-word review: Pastel hues and Neptune-print shirts for a youthful summer vibe.
Held in the bustling Piazza della Signoria in Florence—under the watchful eye of Michelangelo’s David (a copy, not the original that is housed inside Galleria dell’Accademia a few blocks away) on one end of the runway, and Neptune (the Roman god of the sea) standing proudly from his fountain on the other—what ensued was a colourful palette (pastels aplenty, but it was the aubergine and citrus hues that magnetised) of summer separates with an undeniable youthful edge.
There was a healthy dose of leather trousers (tight and high-waisted; only kind to the skinny legs of pubescent youths), punk-inspired motorcycle gilets (tucked rebelliously into tailored trousers), languid cotton jumpsuits (that lent the mature models who wore them a rakish devil-may-care quality), and footwear the likes of lug sole ankle boots (win!) and espadrilles (a miss in our books) all fitted out with chunky heeled soles (making it easier to stomp out pent up teenage angst).
While Meilland’s designs could be described as elegant workwear with a youthful lens, Andrew’s iteration was the reverse: youthful workwear with an elegant lens. More feminine? Hardly. But more adventurous? Definitely.
It was a clear signal that Andrew, while respecting the house’s established clientele—he convinced the likes of art director Peter Saville and American actor Josh Lucas to walk the runway—was chasing a younger crowd for spring/summer 2020. Case in point: seated front row were the likes of Tommy Dorfman (from 13 Reasons Why fame), Dylan Sprouse (twin brother of Cole Sprouse from Riverdale) and rising star Jack Mulhern (who plays Grizz on the new hit Netflix show The Society).
It was a clever continuation of this year’s Met Gala where Ferragamo sponsored a table and dressed upcoming stars Pom Klementieff (French actress who played Mantis in Guardians of the Galaxy) and Hero Fiennes-Tiffin (21-year-old English actor and model) in addition to Riverdale’s Cole Sprouse and Lili Reinhart. The Florentine brand is prudently pursuing the next generation of Ferragamo fans.
Favourite look: That belted and striped safari suit in look 23 contrasted with a tote bag in a dusty mint. Sophisticated workwear for the suave city slicker.
Favourite accessory: Those wrap-around sporty shades for the trend-driven Millennial. Otherwise, those leather and suede bucket bags that closed the show (paired with those Neptune print shirts colour-blocked with patch-pocket trousers for a dreamy summer vibe) for everyone else—young or old.