Welcome back to the City of Lights. And welcome back to our succinct 10-word show reviews (if you want to dip and dash) or listen to our audio reviews (if you want to hear our full thoughts) on the best shows from Paris Fashion Week Men's for the autumn/winter 2020 season.
Saddle up your fashion pony, kids. We're bringing you our favourite looks, must-have accessories, and candid observations from the men's runways—insights that you can only get from attending the show in person.
For the third day of Paris Fashion Week Men's AW20, Givenchy took inspiration from the 14th Maharajah of Indore; Homme Plissé Issey Miyake staged a jubilant performance; Amiri sent out sophisticated '70s suiting; Louis Vuitton had its head in the clouds; and Dries Van Noten fancied fur for fall.
GIVENCHY: NEW AGE DRIFTER
Designer: Claire Waight Keller
10-word show review: Cowboy cool meets New Age drifter meets hedonistic Indian opulence.
Favourite look: It's not immediately obvious until it's pointed out, but Waight Keller took inspiration from the 14th Maharajah of Indore for her autumn/winter 2020 men's collection. Take a closer look at the bejewelled embroidery handiwork found on blazers, tops and coats in the closing evening ensembles (looks 34, 35 and 37), and you'll notice the couture detailing as a nod to the hedonistic opulence of the Indian king. But when it came to our favourite exit, it was look 8 with its New Age drifter vibe—black fedora, leather trench coat, white Chelsea boots, and that persimmon-red turtleneck crafted from latex. Yes, latex.
Favourite accessory: Those square-toed boots that routinely capped off each exit. Standouts include the all-over-stud version in look 7 or the Chelseas with horizontal-harnesses (that is, running down the vamp as opposed to up the ankle) as seen in looks 18 and 23. Not into boots? You'll love the polished calfskin Antigona Soft weekender bag in woven toile (in look 11) or, for something a bit more plush, shearling panels (in look 21).
HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE: A JAM SESSION
Designer: Issey Miyake
10-word show review: A song and dance with colour-blocked clothes that move you.
Favourite look: How do you choose from so many jubilant ensembles? Given the spirit of the show—a seven-part musical performance with dancing models and gregarious entertainers—I'm veering towards one of those single-breasted slickers from looks 33 to 36 that featured upstanding collars and artful strokes of beautiful colour. Positively joyous.
Favourite accessory: Those colourful backpacks with a circular base that can be flat packed. Practical, stylish and hardly takes up any room. What more do you need?
AMIRI: SOPHISTICATED '70S
Designer: Mike Amiri
10-word show review: Elevated tweed suits and leather jumpsuits for the LA jetset.
Favourite look: Is Mike Amiri the new Tom Ford? It's a rather bold statement, but if you flick through the gallery of images above, you'll see the similarities—sexy, sophisticated, '70s—but where Ford sold overt sex, Amiri sells subversion. Case in point: that olive-green twin set in look 46 with its use of feminine tweed, but re-cut like a tracksuit; a dainty pearl necklace, but re-fashioned on a man with a gold chain; and that lady-like crossbody bag, but paired with traditionally masculine white sneakers to ground the entire exit.
Favourite accessory: The Amiri man for autumn/winter 2020 is flying off to his private island on his private jet, and we want to smuggle ourselves onboard by jumping inside those gigantic rectangular carry-all bags—if I had to choose a particular hue, then it would be the optic white in look 9; nothing else quite says, 'LA baller'.
LOUIS VUITTON: LET'S GET HIGH
Designer: Virgil Abloh
10-word show review: The suit evolves with cascading ruffles and René Magritte surrealism.
Favourite look: "Surrealism is the instinctive act of making the ordinary extraordinary," read the show notes and, with that, Abloh presented a tailoring-centric collection that evolved from classic hues of navy and grey to fantastical prints of white clouds against an azure blue sky—very René Magritte—that were were encrusted with crystals. Stardust. But for the day. However, my favourite look was actually exit 47 with a double-breasted suit reimagined, rather child-like and playfully, with cascading ruffles that travelled across the body on the diagonal lapel and flourished at the sleeve hems of the jacket.
Favourite accessory: So. Many. Gorgeous. Bags. But if push came to shove, then we're saving our pretty pennies for the hot fuchsia leather Keepall that had a curved body to accommodate for the carrier's legs. Ergonomic and ingenious.
DRIES VAN NOTEN: PJS, PLATFORMS AND PELTS
Designer: Dries Van Noten
10-word show review: Styling masterclass for the eccentric fashion urbanite and fur lover.
Favourite look: That pilot inspired outfit in look 13 composed of a studded leather aviation trapper cap worn with a knit collared top under a camel DB, cinched at the waist with a studded leather belt (as a stylistic tie-in for the leather cap), paired with dark velvet trousers and black leather heeled boots.
Favourite accessory: Those fur pelts. Relax; they're fake. And they'd instantly add a whole bunch of 'tude to any outfit. In your PJs grabbing a morn cup of joe but it's freezing outside? Fur stole. On the way to the office in a DB but it's freezing outside? Fur stole. Or off for a drink in a leather jacket but it's freezing outside. You guessed it, fur stole. Want to take it to the next level? Usher in more warmth with a fur Ushanka hat. I mean, why not. You've already gone this far.
Day 1 of Paris Fashion Week Men’s AW20: Sankuanz and AMI
Day 2 of Paris Fashion Week Men's AW20: Off-White, JW Anderson and Valentino
Day 4 of Paris Fashion Week Men's AW20: Berluti and Officine Générale
Day 4 of Paris Fashion Week Men's AW20: Dior Men
Day 5 of Paris Fashion Week Men's AW20: Loewe, Bode, Sacai and Hermès
Day 6 of Paris Fashion Week Men's AW20: dunhill and Paul Smith