I still remember my first tailoring experience: it was for prom to mark the end of junior college. I was 18 and knew nothing about fashion. But I knew that I didn't want to rock up to the Grand Hyatt ballroom in a basic black suit. So there I was in a random tailor shop in Far East Plaza that I picked out because it seemed less intimidating than the other slew of shops in the place.
"So what colour are you thinking of?" the man asked.
"Cream," I said pretty confidently.
"You sure?" he questioned.
"Err yes? Do you not have it or something?" I challenged only because I didn't want him to think that I didn't know my stuff (I didn't).
He proceeded to show me the only two cream-coloured fabrics he had on hand. I chose one that had a slight sheen to it, got my measurements taken, and that was it. I didn't voice out my preferences of the type of buttons I'd like, or questioned how my shoulders would be shaped, or even how wide my lapels should be. I didn't know any better and kind of left it to chance. Thankfully, I was rather happy with that cream-coloured blazer. One wear to prom and I never wore it again. It's now probably stuck on a rack in a Salvation Army store somewhere.
Since that first tailoring experience, I've had other (much better and well-researched) tailoring experiences and regular visits to my favourite alterations tailor to get my off-the-rack buys better fitted. None have been well-known made-to-measure or even bespoke outfits, of course. So when KayJen Dylan invited me to try out their made-to-order service, I was intrigued.
The idea
KayJen Dylan is a familiar name in Singapore's tailoring scene having officially been a collective between co-founders Dylan Chong and Matthew Lai since 2017. Chong handles the bespoke portion of the business under Dylan & Son while Lai takes on the made-to-measure (MTM) business. Since April 2018, KayJen Dylan started offering made-to-order (MTO) jackets that were spurred by requests by customers for something that's lightweight and travel-friendly.
The KayJen Dylan MTO jacket is designed completely unlined without any inner canvas and shoulder pads. Thanks to the unstructured construction, it's a less precious piece that one can easily chuck into a luggage and is perfect for those who prefer something less high-maintenance.
The consultation
I met up with Lai for the consultation and he explained what the differences were between the KayJen Dylan MTO and MTM services. For one, it's relatively fuss-free. The MTO service requires no additional fitting after the first consultation and fitting, as compared to the MTM's one additional fitting in between. In total, there need only be two visits to the space for MTO—one to get measured and another to receive your MTO jacket.
As one would expect, the choices in fabrics and buttons are limited (although one can bring in their own buttons). Fabrics offered for MTO are heavy cottons, hopsack, high-twist wools, and certain fabric blends—all specifically chosen because they hold the unstructured construction well.
But the best thing is, they're not exorbitantly expensive for an expertly tailored garment. The MTO jacket will set one back SGD599 to SGD1,500, depending on the fabric chosen.
Lai asked me if I had any preferences in terms of colour. "Something not black. Or blue," I answered. We looked through a few fabric swatches and settled on an Abraham Moon & Sons wool-linen blend that's composed of grey and white threads. I liked that the fabric was light and that it didn't feel like it was too tightly woven together; breathable enough to brave the heat and humidity.
The fitting
As with both MTO and MTM, the final product is based on a standard block with elements that are specific to the KayJen Dylan house style. The cut, in fact, is based off of the principles of its bespoke tailoring.
Lai measured my chest and based on that, decided that I should fit their standard size 37. He took a sample size 37 jacket and had me try it on. It actually fit me quite well already and we decided that there wasn't much alterations needed for that perfect fit. He did recommend to raise the sleeve a touch and take in the waist for a more defined shape. A master tailor then pinned me up for a better visual representation of the final piece and noted down the alterations to be made to the standard block.
After that, we simply decided to go with black horn buttons and to keep everything as per the sample jacket—triple-patch pockets and notched lapels.
And that was it; all done in about 45 minutes.
The final result
Lai contacted me four weeks later to let me know that the jacket's ready for collection. The MTO service requires about four to five weeks before receiving your very own lightweight sports jacket.
Presented on a handsome KayJen Dylan hanger, my MTO jacket looked better than I had imagined. That's the thing with tailoring isn't it? A fabric swatch and a sample jacket can only do so much in helping to visualise the final creation. To say that I was pleased with how it looked is an understatement. But how would it fit though?
As Lai assisted me in getting the jacket on, I could immediately tell that we made the right fabric choice. It felt good on my skin, which meant that I would be able to wear the jacket over short-sleeved tops. The fit was perfect too. I could comfortably move and thanks to the fabrication, there's bound to be no obvious creasing.
Lai did a quick check to see if I was happy with the fit and the adjustments that were made. I would've have walked out with the jacket right there and then if the rest of the outfit matched but yes, definitely more than happy.
This jacket will never be seen on a rack in a Salvation Army store, that's for certain.
Make an appointment with KayJen Dylan by email at [email protected] KayJen Dylan is located at 161B Telok Ayer Street, Singapore 068615.
