On the fifth day of Paris Men’s Fashion Week, Jonathan Anderson paraded a boot-chap hybrid at his first men’s runway show for Loewe; Thom Browne sent out masculine dresses in between long tailored outfits; and Véronique Nichanian was feeling the blues at Hermès.
Read our succinct 10-word reviews below for all you need to know from each show. For the full bottle, listen to the audio review while clicking through the gallery of runway images. Whether you dip and dash, or stay and savour, these reviews are for you to use and enjoy as you please. Très utile? Exactement.
Remember to come back every day for the latest action from Paris Men’s Fashion Week AW19.
LOEWE: LOVE ON THE BRAIN
Designer: Jonathan Anderson
10-word review: Eclectic collage of asymmetric suits and languid knitwear with boot-chaps.
Favourite look: Can we just talk about those leather boot-chap hybrids? A boot worn over trousers but with elongated leather uppers that extended into chaps and buckled at the waist. Brilliant. Just as Rihanna was singing on the runway soundtrack—it must be love on the brain.
As with all things Jonathan Anderson, the first Loewe men’s runway show was a creative collage of colour, prints and textures. Sweaters came adorned with beads and buttons, cardigans were fringed with multi-coloured streamer-like fabric strips, and hooded parkas were crafted with slick calfskin; all of which were long and languid. Why, of course.
But, like Riri, we’ll be fist-fighting with fire just to get close to… look 6. A black cotton twill blouson with a contrast tan leather chest pocket worn over a deep-V denim vest, topped with an aviation-inspired skull cap (chin-strap unfastened for stylistic consistency) and finished with those black boot-chaps. Cerebral, yet commercial.
Favourite accessory: Boot-chaps and flight skull caps were major winners, but for something that’s more appropriate for walking down Orchard Road than peacocking at fashion week, then it has to be Loewe’s iconic Gate bag—oversized in gorgeous tan leather with a cross-body strap so you can go hands free.
THOM BROWNE: MENSWEAR AS A TRIPTYCH
Designer: Thom Browne
10-word review: Layered sartorial menswear reinterpreted into 2D and 3D full-length dresses.
Favourite look: It was a deconstructed fashion lovers’ dream. Sure, Thom Browne offered his signature layered sartorial ensembles—this time in different plaids and checks for a visually complex look—but it was his full-length dresses (complete with a full-length zip running down the spine; that is, just like your missus and requiring an extra pair of hands to put on) that had everyone talking.
But these dresses weren’t like anything you’ve seen before. After each ‘traditional’ menswear exit, the following two looks were dresses that served as creative reinterpretations of the sartorial pieces used to style the original (that is, first) menswear look. The first dress was a two-dimensional knit interpretation of the original menswear look that cleaved tightly to the model’s body, while the second dress was a three-dimensional composite of the original menswear pieces; a patch worked masterpiece that drew on the couture methodology of moulage (just like Kim Jones at Dior Men yesterday) with the garments cascading off the body to create an asymmetric hem line.
As such, when it comes to our favourite look, it’s really a trilogy or triptych. Check out exits 3, 4 and 5. Love the progression of that mink-trimmed grey wool top coat paired with shorts and a cardigan over a white button-down Oxford, as it gradually transformed from a menswear look into two very different ‘masculine dresses’. Bravo.
Favourite accessory: Game for a criss-cross heeled Mary Jane? Then Thom Browne for autumn/winter 2019 is your man. Otherwise, there’s the fun and sure-to-start-a-conversation animal bags—the dog bags were cute, but check out the duck in look 37.
HERMÈS: FEELING THE BLUES
Designer: Véronique Nichanian
10-word review: “Clothing for today, that grows with you over time.” Poetic.
Favourite look: Hermès, like Paris, is always a good idea—even it means navigating blocked roads (Yellow Vest protesters) and Saturday night traffic to reach the show venue (a furniture storage and repair facility) in the 13th arrondissement. At first thought: what a rather odd location for Hermès. But once you consider the fact that the french maison creates products that are meant to be used, loved and repaired—not just used and discarded—then the lines start to connect.
Given the brand’s ethos, the collection was what Véronique Nichanian has been perfecting for decades: a consummate offering of contemporary menswear with an elegant ease, sophisticated simplicity, and with utmost respect for the integrity of the materials. And for autumn/winter 2019, Nichanian was feeling the blues—sending out look after look anchored in midnight blue, navy and indigo—with occasional accents of saffron (that belted leather trench coat in look 22); burnt orange (love that calfskin leather trouser in look 5); and slithers of duck green (as seen in that turtleneck in look 23).
But our favourite ensemble was look 10: that handsome Prussian blue leather overshirt in rubberised lambskin and broad white stripes, tucked into midnight blue leather trousers (with adjustable side tabs to help correct the inevitable stretch in leather), and finished with an indigo zip-up blouson sporting a stand-up collar. The hypnotic and enduring power of blue.
Favourite accessory: The black boots with blue rubberised soles as a complementary anchor to navy and grey suits or, indeed, a pair of blue jeans for more casual occasions.
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