Black Is King is more than just Beyoncè's latest musical film project. The visual accompaniment to her The Lion King: The Gift album—a soundtrack album based on her involvement with The Lion King remake in 2019—was a celebration of 'the breadth and beauty of Black ancestry'. And with all things Beyoncé of late, fashion was a core part of the project.
The 85-minute film featured fashion from both renowned brands the likes of Burberry, Molly Goddard, Mary Katrantzou and Valentino, as well as independent designers such as Laurel DeWitt, Vrettos Vrettakos, and Déviant La Vie. One of the standout fashion moments however, belonged to Marine Serre. And that's all thanks to the 'Already' portion of Black Is King, where Beyoncé and her dancers are seen in matching bodysuits adorned with Marine Serre's distinct crescent moon print.
Google searches for Marine Serre spiked after the release of Black Is King, and was possibly further boosted after Adele posted a photo of herself on Instagram in the same Marine Serre top, posing with a still of the performance on her television.
Who is Marine Serre?
The young French fashion designer initially sought out to be a tennis player but gained an interest in fashion, sparked by an appreciation and love for vintage thanks to her grandfather. Serre graduated from Belgium's La Cambre (the school's alumni include Anthony Vaccarello and Olivier Theyskens) in 2016 and held internship positions at Alexander McQueen, Maison Margiela, and Dior under Raf Simons. While developing her own label, Serre worked for a year as a junior designer at Balenciaga with creative director Demna Gvasalia.
In 2017, Serre became the youngest ever winner of the annual LVMH Prize, based on her fifth-year graduate collection. Her eponymous label then started off with womenswear but expanded in 2019 to include menswear.
The moon print
"The moon for us is like an icon, an emblem, an image, a representation, a flag, a language, a metaphor, an object of what we believe in: crossing boundaries, hybridity and freedom," Serre tells Dazed and Confused. The moon is also known for its ties to femininity, and carries different meanings for different cultures. "It is one of the oldest symbols that ever existed, present everywhere, and that keeps evolving with us… It is never stable and timeless at the same time," Serre explains.
Taking on the shape of a crescent moon, Serre adopted the symbol as her brand's logo and has used the now-iconic repeated print from her first collection—appearing on all manner of bodysuits and denims. Another iteration has since popped up, this time as a monogram pattern that's interspersed with different phases of the moon.
Upcycling and using regenerated materials
Even before 'sustainability' became an industry obsession, Marine Serre was already making use of innovative ways to breathe new life to discarded objects and extensively used regenerated materials as part of its collections. For the brand's autumn/winter 2020 collection, about half were made using already existing materials—recycled from deadstock fabrics, for example—while the rest were made using recycled yarns. Additionallya, the jewellery and accessories in the collection were sourced from odds and ends of discarded materials such as keys, watch faces, chains and other unused metal hardware.
There's a collaboration that could be launched soon
Marine Serre is no stranger to collaborations, having had imbued her design aesthetics (and logo) to big names such as Converse, Nike, Salomon and Comme des Garçons. Upcoming, as teased by A$AP Rocky himself at the backstage of the Marine Serre autumn/winter 2020 runway show, could potentially be a collaboration between the two. Rocky showed off a black puffer jacket subtly decorated with the moon print and declared that it was "co-designed by yours truly". There's no word yet on how extensive the collaboration would be or if it was a custom piece, but we'll be keeping an eye out for it.