Welcome to our succinct 10-word show reviews (if you’re super short on time) plus candid audio reports (if you want to dive deeper) of the best men’s shows from Milan Fashion Week Men’s for the spring/summer 2020 season.
Insightful and honest, these podcast-like reviews are all you need to know from each of our favourite shows—recorded live in Milano—as the action unfolds. And here’s the best part: you can multi-task (go ahead, walk the dog, hit the gym or make yourself dinner) as we chat to you about our recommended looks, must-buy accessories, and other candid on-the-spot insights that you can only get from someone attending the show.
For the third day of Milan Fashion Week Men’s SS20, Etro collaborated with Star Wars; Sunnei sent out a gradation of monochrome looks; and Palm Angels took us to Hawaii, but via the Milano metro.
Click on the play button above, or ‘Listen in browser’ on your smartphones, to listen to the audio review as you scroll through the gallery of looks below.
ETRO: SCI-FI NOMADS
Designer: Kean Etro
10-word show review: Desert nomad with Aztec motifs and Star Wars street wear.
Favourite look: The show invite came in a leather paisley envelope with a print of C3PO and R2D2—a collaboration between Etro and Star Wars? Talk about polar opposites; this is going to be interesting. But when the looks were presented, it was classic Kean Etro: ponchos, shawls, frayed scarves and crushed blazers in desert tones of sand, stone and bark. Where was the Star Wars? Iconic characters from the franchise printed on a black hoodie, appliquéd on a black-and-white bomber, and featured on tees worn under embroidered jackets. Covetable, for sure, but the partnership could have been even more exciting. Favourite exit went to a bronze zip-up blouson with a jacquard of Aztec motifs paired with truncated striped mocha trousers.
Favourite accessory: Strappy sandals for the summer. You won’t look like Jesus if you team them up with tailoring; be it a two-piece suit or a trouser with a tucked in camp-collar shirt. Practically a year-round staple for us living in the tropics.
SUNNEI: CHROME HEARTS
Designer: Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo
10-word show review: A joyful chromatic gradation with patch-pocket parkas and boxy bags.
Favourite look: Held in the outskirts of southern Milano, the runway was staged under a flyover bridge that had been reclaimed and neutralised with white paint—floor, columns, ceiling and all—creating a 4000-square metre ‘open-air gallery’, or what the brand is calling, ‘Bianco Sunnei’. It will operate as an urban regeneration project under the creative direction of Sunnei, with events, installations, and pop-ups executed in collaboration with creatives from Italy and abroad. And it was a rather fitting locale for a monochrome-heavy collection that started with all-white ensembles and transitioned to sunshine yellow, electric lime green and summer sky blue, before finishing with nero. We’re fans of the boxy oversized parka in light denim with patch pockets and a drawstring waist (imagine how beautiful this would be when it ages over time) and that broad black-and-white stripe iteration of a similar parka worn with a matching mandarin-collar shirt and truncated trousers. A little Craig Green, but that’s probably why we love it.
Favourite accessory: Those humongous boxy bags slung over shoulders are great if you’re moving house. Otherwise, try the knit knapsacks with a drawstring closure for an insouciant day bag . And, a first for Sunnei, check out the men’s jewellery.
PALM ANGELS: UNDERGROUND LEI
Designer: Francesco Ragazzi
10-word show review: Hawaiian holiday with tropical butterflies via the underground Milano metro.
Favourite look: The Porta Venezia metro station under one of Milan’s main arteries—Corso Buenos Aires—was transformed into a runway; a unique hybrid of green oasis meets underground club with ferns covering walls; spinning spotlights choreographed to music; and advertising billboards bearing the ‘Palm Angels’ logo. This hybridisation also manifested in the clothes. Signature racer-stripe tracksuits and trucker caps were sent out alongside black leather ‘shackets’ (that is, a portmanteau of ‘shirt’ and ‘jacket’) and knee-length top coats plastered with hibiscus prints or tropical butterflies. It was definitely more high fashion than high street, than anticipated. Loved the pastel puffer gilet with accentuated shoulders, but for something with more gravitas, we’re eyeing that deep purple coat with streaks of tie-dye citrus oranges and yellows.
Favourite accessory: There were fabric necklaces as a nod to Hawaiian floral leis, as well as multi-coloured multi-pockets on boxy backpacks, but we loved the fun X-Men vibe of those white and narrow Cyclops sunglasses.
Milan Fashion Week Men's SS20 Day 1: Ermenegildo Zegna XXX
Milan Fashion Week Men's SS20 Day 2:Emporio Armani, Dolce&Gabbana, Marni, Versace and Philipp Plein
Milan Fashion Week Men's SS20 Day 4: Fendi
Milan Fashion Week Men's SS20 Day 4: Giorgio Armani