It's day three of Milan Fashion Week Men's and the fashion brands are continuously proving that the Italian fashion capital has still got it despite the shorter show schedule. We take a look at Italian brands Sunnei and Prada—deservingly two of the best shows for the day. Sunnei (a young brand that's only in its ninth season) presented a co-ed runway show and debuted its first womenswear collection, while Prada left us guessing as always and still remains the most talked about and sought after show during Milan Fashion Week.
Sunnei
If yesterday’s shows were heavy and complex mains, then Sunnei's spring/summer 2019 collection was a light palette cleanser.
Held at the 31st floor of Palazzo Pirelli, the set had a little surprise in store for us—right before the show, the blinds were pulled up to let the sun in. Maybe it’s a metaphorical expression of a new dawn at the young Italian brand. Sunnei also debuted their women’s collection for the first time.
Known for their clean lines, pared down graphics and relaxed silhouettes, the design duo behind the brand, Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, added a healthy dose of functionality to this season’s collection.
Nautical stripes laid the foundation for the graphics of the collection and done in Sunnei’s signature playful twist. The most obvious was the asymmetrical stripes appearing on cuffs and collars of coats, in different directions and colours. My favourite rendition were the looks that featured nylon cargo pants with a hint of striped shorts peeking through, and worn with a simple T-shirt.
Functionality came in the form of pockets added to almost every garment; a simple idea, but executed with taste. Trousers became sleek cargo pants while anoraks and jackets were fixed with kangaroo pockets at the front. Heavier fabrics often had functional buttons running down the sides, so you can let some of the heat out when the mercury rises.
Prada
Much like life, or a box of chocolates, you never truly know what you're going to get at a Prada show. Often before heading to the show, the travelling band of editors will try to predict what Miuccia Prada will send down the runway. Oftentimes, we fail.
This spring/summer 2019 season was no different. We entered the show space to find it completely plasticised, complete with inflatable cubes that served as seats. If I was to make an educated guess at that point, it would be that plastic would appear in the collection in some shape or form.
But in lieu of plastics, she sent out a collection of '60s inspired tailored jackets in suede and wool with turtleneck sweaters, at times layered over cropped polo tees. The looks, at times, were worn with beautifully cut trousers and denim jeans, but often were completed with shorts—micro shorts to be exact—juxtaposed with a massive nylon ushanka hat.
When asked about the collection, Miuccia wanted to present elegance but in a young, new way. For a collection largely devoid of sporty or streetwear references, she managed to channel both, simply by harnessing the idea of a style of dressing that could only be possibly pulled off by a youth in the prime of his life.
Now the plastic covered walls and furniture makes sense—a reference to the artificial manicured world inhabited by the youth.
There is a reason why Miuccia Prada remains at the top of the fashion food chain. She has the ability to take simple garments, recontextualise them, and use them to maximum effect while making it completely desirable.
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