Welcome back to the City of Lights. And welcome back to our succinct 10-word show reviews (if you want to dip and dash) or listen to our audio reviews (if you want to hear our full thoughts) on the best shows from Paris Fashion Week Men’s for the autumn/winter 2020 season.
Saddle up your fashion pony, kids. We’re bringing you our favourite looks, must-have accessories, and candid observations from the men’s runways—insights that you can only get from attending the show in person.
For the second day of Paris Fashion Week Men’s AW20, Off-White kicked off proceedings with a tap dancer under a chandelier; JW Anderson went supersize; and Valentino invited FKA Twigs to perform in the Grand Palais.
OFF-WHITE: SUITS FOR SUITES
Designer: Virgil Abloh
10-word show review: The angst and ecstasy of Off-White interpreted as double-breasted suits.
Favourite look: There were no transparent garments, heavily frayed denim, or inverted commas to be seen. It was a grown-up Off-White collection, but still imbued with Abloh’s ironic take on modern menswear, characterised by double-breasted suits. And in that discourse, our pick of the pack was that elongated and boxy double-breasted option in look 12, plastered with hand-drawn prints of everyday objects—champagne bottle, Stabilo Boss highlighter, sliced lemons, a prostrate hand and a monkey wrench. Proletariat, but with a bourgeois touch.
Favourite accessory: Have you noticed that Virgil loves a paper clip? He has a yellow gold bracelet made from paper clips and a matching necklace to boot. For the Off-White runway, his penchant for elevating the everyday came in the form of a paper clip earring. Sure, you can probably make one yourself, but will it be cast in iridescent gold?
JW ANDERSON: GO BIG OR GO HOME
Designer: Jonathan Anderson
10-word show review: Supersized outerwear and paisley shifts anchored with oversized chain hardware.
Favourite look: Fashion, like any art form, is supposed to inspire. So it was refreshing to see Jonathan cast commercial concerns aside with a bold menswear offering that banked on the age-old adage, ‘go big or go home’. There were stacks of killer oversized coats to choose from, but the winner in our books was that grey turtleneck knit in look 24 with a pleated olive green knit affixed to the front and featuring costume pearls running down both shoulders.
Must-buy item: Can’t pull off those long-sleeve paisley shift dresses but still want to buy into the collection? Check out those black leather mules adorned with statement gold chain hardware. Or better yet, purchase one of those ‘Burning House’ sweaters (available online now and inspired by the stencil artwork by AIDS activist David Wojnarowicz), where a portion of the proceeds goes to support Visual AIDS that raises awareness and support for HIV+ artists.
VALENTINO: FLORALS FOR FALL
Designer: Pierpaolo Piccioli
10-word show review: A poetic parade of tailoring and streetwear propagated with florals.
Favourite look: Florals for fall? Actually groundbreaking. Not just any florals, but florals taken from Inez and Vinoodh’s flower images, it was a romantic collection made even more haunting with the soaring vocals of FKA Twigs performing live in the Grand Palais. So, it’s not a surprise then that my favourite exit was look 17 with the pairing of an understated charcoal DB suit worn under a statement camel coat featuring Inez and Vinoodh’s appliqued flowers. Tres chic.
Favourite accessory: Skip the ‘VLTN’ plexiglass rectangular crossbody bags for the black leather crossbody iteration in a top-handle bag design bordered with black Rockstuds.
Best shows from day 1 of Paris Fashion Week Men’s AW20: Sankuanz and AMI
Best shows from day 3 of Paris Fashion Week Men's AW20: Givenchy, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake, Amiri, Louis Vuitton and Dries Van Noten