Let’s be honest: it’s not the best time to be in Paris. Firstly, it’s five degrees and gloomy (and not in that charming artist kind of way). And secondly, people are going nuts with the yellow vest protests. Shows that were originally slated for Saturday (main day in the week for protests) have either been moved to another day or rescheduled to really early or late in the day to avoid the bulk of the riots.
But we’re crazy fashion Asians. Nothing is going to stop us from visiting the City of Lights to report on the best from the autumn/winter 2019 défilés. We are braving undesirable conditions to bring you these succinct 10-word show reports and audio reviews. So read on. Listen in. And remember to come back every day for the latest action from Paris Men’s Fashion Week AW19.
HERON PRESTON: NIGHTSHIFT NORMCORE
Designer: Heron Preston Johnson
10-word review: Slavic normcore accented with neon and mixed with workwear gilets.
Favourite look: With the undeniable scent of weed wafting through the air (which we gathered was emanating from a guest rather than from some intentional smoke machine designed for the runway; or, at least we hope), Heron Preston banked on his signature design leitmotifs for his first runway show—that is, wearable streetwear in alarmist hues and pockmarked with Cyrillic characters for ‘style’. Safe and commercial. Which is why our favourite look was that full orange exit in look 12 consisting of a stand-up slicker tucked into trackpants with black zip hems, cinched at the waist with a black belt bag, and worn with metallic gold biker boots.
Favourite accessory: We’re kind of over the Cyrillic ‘style’ characters on small bags. Hand us the zip-up gilets instead. Layer it with a T-shirt or style it over a coat for an interesting play on length, while providing functional pocket access.
SANKUANZ: SEXY SCISSOR HANDS
Designer: Shangguan Zhe
10-word review: Tailoring meets Edward Scissorhands with zip leather trousers and chains.
Favourite look: What a refreshingly sartorial collection for a brand that is more associated with sweats and sneakers than lapels and leather. We loved the pairing of those sharp all-black suits with metallic hand-jewellery reminiscent of Edward Scissorhands. Key words: Sexy, powerful, cult. A major win in our books.
Favourite accessory: We’ve been saying this for two seasons now, and we’re still shouting it from the Parisian rooftops—leather trousers are major. Especially when they come with the fly deliberately left undone to create a V-crotch (is that even a term?) design effect. Relax kids, the trousers had a black denim base layer to protect the wearer’s modesty. This ain’t a Rick Owens show. Also, how about all those mock croc small leather bags dripping with silver chains. Chic yet cult.
CMMN SWDN: DECAY AND DECOMPOSITION
Designer: Emma and Saif Bakir
10-word review: Old is gold with frayed knitwear and nostalgic boxy blazers.
Favourite look: For autumn/winter 2019, designers Emma and Saif Bakir showcased pieces that exaggerated the decay of pre-loved garments—exemplified by frayed knits worn over shirting—as a reaction to our digital obsession for speed. There were plenty of well-worn fabrics by way of crumpled viscose, creased wool and cracked leather, but our favourite looks were those ‘blazer-capes’ (you know you’re onto a winner when you start inventing garment names). In short, they were boxy blazers with a slit in the sleeves to allow the wearer to cross his arms, or tuck his hands into the waist of his trousers, without breaking the vertical line of the sleeve; hence, resembling the A-line of a cape. Super.
Favourite accessory: Yes, we’re obsessed with leather trousers. Shout out to those patch worked leather trousers in various shades of chocolate, tobacco and wheat. Just go out and buy yourself a pair already.
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