A massive day at Paris Fashion Week Men's with the debut of Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton in addition to fashion’s perennial favourites—AMI and Dries Van Noten. Which looks soared and which looks sunk? And what should you buy in September when the collections hit stores? Read our 10-word show reviews below and listen to our audio reviews (recorded live in Paris) to find out.
Remember: come back each day for your recommended daily dose of #menswear from Paris Fashion Week Men's.
Designer: Alexandre Mattiussi
10-word review: Return to the country with fishermen hats and velcro sandals.
Favourite look: The dishevelled elegance of look 5 with its colour blocked combination of a crew neck white tee, worn under a camel camp-collar shirt, worn under a loose-cut cobalt blazer, and with the shirt nonchalantly half-tucked into lavender trousers. Dreamy.
Favourite accessory: Sure you could get the large brim fisherman’s bucket hats in cotton twill (go for the white) or the Velcro sandals that were worn with socks (break all the traditional fashion rules), but do you know what’s easier to pull off? Those black circular sunglasses with a gold chain strap that dangled on the back of the neck like a reverse necklace. It's subtle, but still making a statement.
Issey Miyake Men
Designer: Yusuke Takahashi
10-word review: Shirting as outerwear with graphics inspired by prisms of light.
Favourite look: Given that the inspiration was sunlight, there were plenty of easy and breezy shirting options in optic white and tie-dye to reflect the effect of light travelling on a moving garment. But what could be more quintessentially sunlight than a rainbow? Which is why we loved the boxy v-neck tee in look 22 with its multi-coloured variegated stripes. Bright and beautiful.
Favourite accessory: Forget the lace-ups; we’re going for the chic leather pool slides.
Designer: Virgil Abloh
10-word review: Harnessed suits and transparent Keepall bags on a rainbow runway.
Favourite look: Virgil is leaving the dream, so it was rather apt that The Wizard of Oz was a reference point for his debut collection at Vuitton—after all, somewhere over the rainbow, way up high, dreams really do come true. That explains the rainbow runway that ran down the length of Jardin du Palais-Royal. Thus, we’re singling out the Wizard of Oz hand-knitted and embroidered crew neck sweater in look 54 that shows a silhouette of Dorothy, Tin Man, Scarecrow and the Cowardly Lion walking down the yellow brick road. Iconic of the collection, without being hype.
Favourite accessory: We’re saying “nay” to the transparent LV Keepalls (though the polychromatic version at the end was blinding in the midday sun) and saying “yes please” to the black hard case trunk carried in look 41.
Designer: Yohji Yamamoto
10-word review: Deconstructed black languid silhouettes amped up with painterly acid florals.
Favourite look: The Yohji spirit is always an alchemy of tailored ease and deft deconstruction, but for spring/summer 2019, Yohji felt edgier and more disgruntled than usual. Just check out the acid bright florals slathered on velvet jackets and flowing tunic shirts, and the exaggerated cutouts on his long black blazers. However, it was the rock-flavour of look 19 with its panelled tan leather on the front of an asymmetric blazer worn with full-bodied tobacco trousers, that really piqued our interest.
Favourite accessory: Those all-black baseball caps. A refreshing streetwear affectation as a balance to Yohji’s signature battered up fedora.
Dries Van Noten
Designer: Dries van Noten
10-word review: To the beach with psychedelic prints on shorts and shirts.
Favourite look: A tie between the punchy and positive attraction of look 3 with its T-shirt and trouser combination in a matching rainbow stripe pulled from the archives of late Danish interior designer Verner Panton (coincidentally, the same designer responsible for the inflatable plastic seats at Miuccia’s Prada show in Milan), and the crafty styling of a green hooded slicker tucked into a khaki boiler suit with the sleeves tied around the waist in look 22.
Favourite accessory: Technically not an accessory, but the opening swim shorts in white with the rainbow Verner Panton stripes. Let’s hit the beach.
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