The legendary couturier Christian Dior adopted a structured creative process when designing a collection. He would pin fabric swatches onto his design notes. These swatches were often arranged in a row, accompanying an illustration of the ensemble it is intended for. While they were typically cut into rectangles, the size of each swatch varied—the natural result of a human’s touch. Dior Joaillerie’s artistic director Victoire de Castellane interpreted this uneven arrangement as mineral strata, compressing links of multiple facets into a stunning piece of jewellery for Gem Dior.
The original Gem Dior collection was a literal interpretation of both couture and nature as de Castellane opted to inlay different gemstones onto gold links to create colourful combinations reminiscent of the miscellany of fabric swatches used by Monsieur Dior. In 2023, the artistic director took a 180-degree turn and offered a minimalist series with slabs of gold, with and without diamonds, immediately making the Gem Dior collection more gender-neutral than before.
The latest expansion to Gem Dior can then be considered as a combination of the original and the 2023 versions. Retaining the essence of the original, the latest Gem Dior pieces consist of yellow, white and pink gold foundations that are then decorated with either a uniformed string of diamonds or a beautiful gradient of diamonds, tsavorite garnets and sapphires in one single piece. The latter echoes the original’s combination of different gemstones while refining the approach.
The new collection is available as bracelet, ring or earring, all individually sold for contemporary styling. We love that there is no wrong way to wear any of the pieces. You can sport a Gem Dior ring as the sole piece of jewellery for a subtle statement. Or you can add a bracelet or two to your existing wrist stack. You can even pair two different earrings together as an assertion of individual style. The relative refinement in the latest Gem Dior collection calls for a celebration of one’s natural leanings. How you feel like wearing one is exactly how it’s intended to be worn.
You’re dressed to the nines: a carefully crafted outfit complete with shoes that function as splendidly as they look, and punctuated with the right amount of accessories that say you’re all about the fine details. From the first glance of the ensemble, it’s obvious that you know who you are and what you like. The aesthetic is set. What more can elevate it? The right scent.
That’s the idea behind fragrances guided by luxury fashion houses. Yes, they’re often thought of as entry-level introductions to a fashion house—an affordable way of immersing oneself into its tenets—but conceptually, they act more like final touches to a look. The final accessory, if you will.
It is counterintuitive, however, to complete a head-to-toe Dior Men fit with a Dior fragrance—it says little about you as a person than you’d think. As is the case with style and fashion, it’s not so much about what you wear as it is about how you wear something.
Master perfumers may sometimes take inspiration from the fashion house but more often than not, the fragrances tend to stand on their own. They remain true to the spirit of the house they’re crafted for, yet hardly are they literal manifestations of a certain collection or fashion creation of the house. And that means that these fragrances are as malleable as fashion, capable of being paired and layered to suit a mood or occasion.
Subtle nuances rank high in fashion. The simplest and most minimal of fashion creations should never be taken as the easiest to execute—the more seemingly minimal a piece is, the more technical the craftsmanship needed.
The latest expression of the Hermès H24 eau de parfum is a strong representation of the notion. Formulated by the director of creation and olfactory heritage for Hermès Parfums Christine Nagel, the H24 Herbes Vives revisits the original with a more vegetal vision. The result is a greener fragrance brought about by a combination of fresh herbs the likes of parsley, hemp, and sorrel while still retaining that slightly metallic signature allure of H24. The latter is reimagined with Physcool® that adds a hint of mint to the mix.
Francis Kurkdjian interprets Dior’s iconic New Look spirit as a fragrance, reimagining it as an encapsulation of the term for today. The top note consisting of a soaring aldehyde strikes with a clean, almost sterile, hit that is then grounded with the earthy characteristics of frankincense. What gives the La Collection Privée Christian Dior New Look even more body is the base amber accord for a completely balanced fragrance that hardly overpowers.
Maison Margiela’s Replica From The Garden is essentially a bottled memory of harvesting tomatoes in a rich and healthy garden. Hence, the freshness of tomato leaves is matched with bright green mandarin, patchouli, and geranium essences for a truly green concoction. It’s fresh but not cutting, so much so that you’d smell like a bush; rather, a spritz of the very best of nature.
For more intense flavours, these latest selections offer more body and depth that are best suited to be worn on their own. Take the BOSS Bottled Elixir for example. The eau de parfum is a more elevated take on the popular eau de toilette original that’s become part of a starter pack for men venturing into fragrances. Just like the original, the overall fragrance is warm and heavy. Incense and cardamom top notes combine with earthy vetiver and patchouli before being rounded with cedarwood essence and labdanum absolute. It’s typically what one would think of as a masculine fragrance but amped up in intensity.
YSL Beauty’s new MYSLF eau de parfum is its take on “new masculinity”. While it is as bold and heavy as other masculine fragrances, there are hints of vibrant freshness. A bergamot accord serves as its top note, giving off that freshness while a middle orange blossom heart dials down the citrus with sweetness. And for that depth typical of masculine fragrances, a woody accord of Indonesian patchouli and Ambrofix.
If rich, leather-inspired scents are what you feel, add that luxurious complement to your fit, the Noir Kogane eau de parfum by Armani/ Privé deserves a spot in your fragrance rotation. The leather base is topped with sharp elemi and pink pepper, with saffron and frankincense adding on to the intensity. But if the first spritz is intense, the fragrance dries down into a sweet balance of leather and tobacco in a rather satisfying way.
Photography: Jaya Khidir
Styling: Asri Jasman
Styling Assistant: Chua Xin Xuan
Sulwhasoo’s decades of expertise in harnessing the power of ginseng for skincare (an intricate 15-step process of extracting the active ingredient Syringaresinol from ginseng berries) has culminated in its latest anti-ageing concoction.
The Ultimate S Cream is powered by the resulting Ginseng Berry SR™ that promises a transformative effect on the skin. The formulation is designed to respond to skin temperature for instant smooth absorption into the skin. Consistent use of the product for at least eight weeks has been shown to reduce the signs of skin ageing and boost the removal of skin impurities induced by ageing. The proceeding effect encourages healthy skin cell growth, increases collagen levels and revives skin vitality.
Targeting the epidermal growth factor (EGF) that’s found naturally in the skin, Bioeffect’s EGF Power Serum is scientifically crafted to aid in its functions. EGF essentially keeps skin looking young and healthy by being part of the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. A definite boost since EGF diminishes with age.
The EGF Power Serum is packed with 12 pure ingredients including Bioeffect’s flagship growth factors, Barley EGF and Barley KGF—the latter is what maintains the health of the skin barrier. The serum is designed to support the skin barrier function and significantly reduce the appearance of wrinkles and pigmentation. At the same time, it increases skin thickness and density to give that youthful appearance everyone desires.
Dior is known for its Rose de Granville—the first rose created for use in cosmetic skincare—named after the garden of its founder. Now, for the first time, the house has developed a serum to concentrate the buds of the rose in order to target the triggers of ageing at its source as well as correct visible signs of ageing.
The Rosapeptide Premier is a concentration of the power of these buds that is now infused into the Dior Prestige Le Nectar Premier serum. It’s formulated to improve the skin’s volume, texture and radiance, enhancing the outline of the face and giving the appearance of plumper and denser skin. And as with a growing rose, the idea is that the skin can bloom into its own youthful radiance.
Rationale’s products are founded on dermatological science and began as a line that was only available through professional skincare experts. Each product is full of potent active ingredients with the complete Rationale experience, comprising a uniquely prescribed combination of products.
The #3 The Enriched Eye Crème SPF15 both nourishes and protects the delicate eye area during the day. Vital skin connective tissues such as collage and elastin are restored with the help of zinc and iron oxide technologies combined with botanical extracts and other active ingredients. Peptides and amino acids help to protect the area from the sun and other environmental stressors, while topical nutrients help to brighten and visibly revitalise the area, so you don’t look tired.
As its name suggests, the Supremÿa At Night The Supreme Anti-Aging by Sisley works at night, when cellular and skin regeneration occurs naturally while we sleep and rest. This process, however, weakens as we age. Sisley’s formulation is designed to work especially well in the dark, with the aim of boosting the natural regeneration process.
The core of the product lies in its Fundamental Regeneration Complex that aids in intense and optimal anti-ageing regeneration. The lightweight formulation helps to resynchronise the fundamental mechanisms of skin regeneration while helping to recover from the constant damage the skin experiences every single day. Consider it as a detox that unlocks the natural processes of the skin, helping to prepare it for a new day.
Guerlain’s Orchidée Impériale skincare range is the brand’s most renowned and luxurious line based around the orchid. Guerlain’s researchers have developed two new extracts from the flower—the orchid oleo-concentrate and orchid water—that are part of its new Rich Cream.
The new formulation targets the skin’s most fundamental needs: hydration, nutrition and regeneration. The Rich Cream does this by mimicking the epidermis’ natural architecture so that it’s easily absorbed by the skin. The orchid-rich ingredients then activate and extend the skin’s cell longevity by strengthening cell vitality and increasing regenerative properties by a factor of five. This means that the skin defies ageing-caused degeneration while also receiving immediate nutrition.
RIMOWA expands its "Never Still" campaign with the introduction of three more faces to its fold: Blackpink's Rosé, French footballer Kylian Mbappé, and Formula One athlete Lewis Hamilton. The three global icons embody the campaign's latest chapter of travel being more than just for personal advancement, but also an impetus for inner transformation. The campaign's film is scored by Hans Zimmer who created four bespoke tracks in total—one for a collective campaign video, and one for each solo short film.
The nominees for The Fashion Awards 2023—formerly known as the British Fashion Awards—are in. The list of nominees for "Model of the Year", "British Menswear Designer", "British Womenswear Designer", "New Establishment Menswear" and "New Establishment Womenswear" awards were shortlisted by the British Fashion Council together with key press and buyers with in-depth knowledge of the industry. The winners will then be decided by a committee of 1,000 members, with the "Model of the Year" winner determined by public voting for the first time. Up for "British Menswear Designer" are Kim Jones for Dior Men, Martine Rose, Steven Stokey-Daley for S.S. DALEY, Grace Wales Bonner for Wales Bonner, and Kiko Kostadinov.
The Fashion Awards 2023 is scheduled to happen on 4 December 2023 at London's The Royal Albert Hall.
Le Bristol Paris has announced another fashion collaboration. This time, the Parisian hotel is partnering up with Californian brand Sporty & Rich on a range of co-branded ready-to-wear and accessories. Find a a selection of timeless apparel from tees to jumpers and sweatpants as well as caps, socks and other accessories. Each piece is crafted from premium, natural materials and reflects the elegant and sophisticated aesthetic of both brands.
The Le Bristol Paris x Sporty & Rich capsule collection launches 27 September 2023 at Le Bristol Paris Boutique as well as on sportyandrich.com.
The Givenchy boutique in Paragon has officially reopened to reveal a renovated aesthetic that matches current artistic director Matthew M. Williams' vision for the luxury fashion house. Two sculptures in collaboration with British artist Ewan MacFarlane (this is not the first time that Givenchy has collaborated with the artist) add dynamism to the boutique's windows with their atypical postures positioned alongside the house's pieces. The boutique stocks the full range of both the men's and women's collections as well as exclusive capsule collections.
Former Dior artistic director Marc Bohan died on Wednesday in Châtillon-sur-Seine, France. He was 97. Bohan served as artistic director for nearly three decades, succeeding Yves Saint Laurent in 1960. Prior to that, he was already designing for the house since 1958. It was during his time as artistic director that the first iteration of menswear for Dior, Christian Dior Monsieur, was conceived in 1970.
Kim Jones' futuristic endeavours were ever-present throughout the collection, from the innovative construction of the garment to the avant-garde accessories. The construction of a jacket from one continuous piece of fabric is testament to the maison’s impeccable savior-faire.
The Dior Men fall 2023 collection came to light amid the vast, boundless Egyptian desert plains. The majestic peak of the Great Pyramid of Giza painted the backdrop as Kim Jones’ parade of men emerged from a sea of sand in the dark of night to the command of booming techno beats. Jones may have taken the fall 2023 presentation to the grounds where the oldest of the Seven Wonders of the World stood, but his vision for the collection was far from the timeworn. Instead, it carried a distinct futuristic quality that, on many occasions, called to mind Frank Herbert’s dystopian universe, Dune. The otherworldly landscape aside, a palpable Martian sensibility was rife across the 75-men strong crusade. Jones’ army sported futuristic sunglasses topped off with protective face shields, chest guards over knitwear and underneath jackets, and utilitarian combat footwear. Their uniforms, mostly a subdued colour palette of neutrals and varying hues of grey, were occasionally punctuated by pops of bright yellow and zesty orange.
As Jones took to space for inspiration, he naturally had his eyes set on the stars, just as founder Christian Dior and the ancient Egyptians had in the past. The result: a series of astral prints conceived alongside the National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA), fittingly transposed onto jackets reminiscent of astronaut suits.
It was clear: Jones had little interest in being overtly referential to the history books of ancient Egypt. Instead, he had his nose buried deep in the archives of the Maison—the storied past of its womenswear realm, in particular. By now, Jones’ affinity for drawing from the feminine to inform his menswear outings is an enduring fixture in his modus operandi at Dior Men.
This season, Jones’ points of womenswear reference centred around three archival dresses—the “Junon”, “Bonne Fortune”,and “Caramba”. While the “Junon”, and “Bonne Fortune” dresses were rehashed as meticulously embroidered tank tops and pleated demi-kilts respectively, the “Caramba” dress informed the distinctive cord-stiffened detailing employed in the construction of the collection’s modern wool tracksuits.
The jackets were a tip of the hat to space suits worn by astronauts. Led by expert workmanship, the nuances of the collection were hidden in plain sight. Jones’ vision for the uniform of the future is replete with juxtapositions of experimental accessories against updated menswear classics.
The past and the present, steered by Jones’ vision for the future effortlessly came together where old world techniques were adopted in tandem with cutting-edge technology. These nuances, peppered across the collection, were hidden in plain sight. Astral-printed jackets were purposefully cut to reflect light at precise angles to replicate the shining effect of a star; desert boots featured 3-D printed foot-guards; and demi-kilts were handcrafted with an ingeniuos trompe l'oeil of pleats.
Jones’ work at Dior Men is a wardrobe proposition for men ahead of their time. If not as far a head into a dystopian future as the show presentation might have you believe, the fall 2023 collection offered an ultra-modern sartorial update to quintessential wardrobe pieces. The tailored suits, knitwear separates and tactical jackets would fit into everyday life just as easily as they did in the utopian terrains of Cairo—sans the avant-garde head gear and billowing scarfs.
That concludes fashion month, I suppose. Buyers, stylists, models, and celebrities have been traveling between fashion capitals over the past few weeks to learn how the world's best-dressed men will be dressing for next summer.
So, what's the verdict? Are we all going to be dressed like highlighter pens, or will neutral shades reign supreme once again? Will the silhouettes be baggy or Meet Me in the Bathroom-level skinny? Will our wardrobes be even more gorpcore-y or Y2K or... neither? Without further ado, here's our trend breakdown.
Showing at Fendi’s leather goods factory, Silvia Venturini Fendi presented a collection that played tribute to the callous-thumbed artisans that fill her team. Suits came with stitches for fitting alterations and shirts were printed with toolkits, but it was in the accessories where you could see a direct connection to workers’ uniforms. Models walked with F-monogrammed coffee cups (some in holders, some in hand), documents, measuring tape and name tags as if they were just clocking in for another day.
This trend for accessorising everyday items and elevating the supposedly mundane continued into Paris Fashion Week. Louis Vuitton also had a fellow caffeine addict walk their runway, this time with a straw poking out of the coffee cup lid, as well a model who sported a leather version of the LV shopping bag.
It’s natural for summer collections to be a bit on the brighter side, but no one was expecting the sheer amount of clothes that were imbued with a satsuma-esque shade of orange. While the colour can be intimidating for even the most extroverted dresser, designers made it look as effortless as an Easy Peeler: Dries Van Noten paired pumpkin shorts with a tucked-in double-breasted blazer, while Etro’s more brazen take—a tinsel tank and hoody combo—is for the risk takers. For a contemporary take on suiting, Zegna’s pastel pieces shouldn’t be ignored, and should prove to be a go-to for wedding attire next year, but for casual, everyday-wear, Bianca Saunders’ graphic tees are a must.
Recently, the baseball cap has had a comeback, and it appears that the sporting fervor will continue into next summer as well. Fendi, Martine Rose and Saul Nash all had their own takes, varying from Italian leather to acid-wash denim. But there was more outré headwear, too. Kim Jones had his models wear colourful beanies (at an askew angle) while at Kenzo, Nigo showed wide-brim sun hats and printed berets.
The rules of smart-casual dressing have always included a time-tested formula: pair a nice shirt with some more relaxed bottoms and... there you have it. Foolproof, which is why it featured heavily across the spring/summer ’24 shows. But for this season, you should expect shirt designs that are brasher and a lot more eye-catching. Dior, for example, bejewelled a work shirt with a load of blue crystals, while Ami and Dries Van Noten both had heavily sequinned button-downs within their collections. Prada even stuck on 3D florals and some fringing onto theirs. The message is clear: the bolder the better.
This season also saw brands embrace a concept that has been embraced in womenswear for decades: the going out top. Fendi had a halterneck shirt where the arms drape behind, and Loewe presented a metallic blouse that sparkled like a disco ball. And for more retro takes, Saint Laurent had sleeveless pussybows and sheer blouses aplenty.
It’s lucky that the Y2K low-rise trend has barely entered the menswear-sphere, despite having dominated womenswear for seasons now. In fact, brands are rebelling against it. Waistlines were well above the belly button at Loewe and Prada in both trousers and shorts form respectively, while the use of cummerbunds at D&G and Wales Bonner gave the visual illusion of longer legs and shorter torsos.
Hemlines have also started retreating north, despite seasons of the long and slouchy silhouette. All of the longer-length bottoms at Dior were cropped just above the ankle, and at Hermès the hems were turned up to give full view of the models' fisherman sandals. Waistbands and hemlines are moving on up.
Perennial plants have been blooming in menswear for the last few years, and seeing them blooming in this season’s collections isn’t all that unusual. However, they were blown up to larger and slightly darker sizes as opposed to the more twee prints we had previously seen. As mentioned earlier, Prada had 3D lilies stitched onto shirts, but also positioned them alongside prints of slightly gloomier (potentially underwatered) styles. Emporio Armani centred their black-heavy collection around a ginkgo leaf, where it featured as cut-outs on peak lapel blazers and woven onto lattice-like tops. Valentino had singular roses, an enlarged poppy motif and peonies as part of its sartorial garden, and Kenzo had rose heads printed and stitched onto its denim pieces.
While pairing a linen suit with sandals isn’t exactly a revolutionary move, the catwalks this year were particularly... toe-heavy. Expect wedding wardrobes to follow suit, for better or worse. Dries Van Noten paired a waist-hugging black suit with leather flip flops, and the toe-dividing footwear was also seen at Wales Bonner, where it was styled with a structured linen two-piece. If you have an aversion to seeing your tootsies outside of beach locations, follow Hermès’ lead by sticking to a fisherman sandal. Suited and booted? No, it’s about being suited and sandaled.
The sheer volume of suits and tailoring on the spring/summer '24 runways proved that, despite the pandemic's best efforts to the contrary, they are still in demand. Still, it was clear that there was one cut that reigned supreme for the season: the double breasted suit. They opened the show at Givenchy, worn with hands in pockets at Loewe, paired with contrasting trousers at Ami, as part of a three-piece suit at Paul Smith and in a horse-bit check print at Gucci.
Originally published on Esquire UK
The Dior Spa Cruise returns for another season amidst couture week. Setting sail in Paris on 3 July, consider it an impeccably dressed, floating wellness guru with great views of the Eiffel Tower and a sincere desire to help you detox, re-energise, reverse-age, and relax, for two hours on the Seine.
Best thing about it? With only four rooms—three single, one double—we’re talking exclusive relaxation that’s available for only five people at a time.
Taking place on a yacht named Stunning Excellence that’s currently moored at Port Henri IV, near Île Saint-Louis, the cruising continues until July 14 (coinciding with Couture Week in the city), and has you covered for tailor-made holistic treatment programs that treat mental, emotional and physical well-being.
To our mind, the Dior initiative gets the concept of cruising just right—namely, it only lasts two hours. Enough time for you to relax, unwind, and enjoy a treatment and the view. There are two types of cruises on offer (treatment-based and wellness) each lasting the full 120 minutes. Those looking for the full Dior package can combine them both for a four-hour extravaganza.
While reservations are available online (here), it’s worth noting that the treatment cruise, includes one hour of chilled time on deck, and a one-hour treatment (detox, balance, reverse-aging, power or relaxation), are available on specific dates, so be sure to check before booking.
The wellness cruise, meanwhile, offers one hour of on-deck relaxation and a 60-minute wellness activity.
Unsurprisingly, the yacht itself is something of a flex. The remodelled decor includes Dior’s signature toile de jouy, while the 1,290-square-foot upper deck features a juice bar and pool, as well as lounge chairs to see and be seen from. Although as you’ll glide past Parisian icons such as the Eiffel Tower, Notre-Dame cathedral, Musée d’Orsay and Grand Palais, it would be advisable to be more on the side of seeing than being seen.
Set sail on the Dior Spa Cruise from July 3 to 14. Reservations are available at Dior.com
