Baselworld and SIHH might have been done and dusted but the luxury watch industry still has much and more to show. We’re talking about Time To Move 2019, the first ever Swatch Group-exclusive event featuring brands in its luxury portfolio such as Breguet, Blancpain, Harry Winston, Jaquet Droz, Glashutte Original, and of course Omega.
Held over three days in different parts of Switzerland, Time To Move was an immersive experience showcasing the unique heritage and savoir-faire of each brand. Breguet with its time-honoured know-how on such rare artisanal crafts as guilloche; Blancpain and the Fifty Fathom’s deep connection with the professional diving universe; Harry Winston’s glorious jewellery making expertise and almost ballsy approach to watchmaking.
Jaquet Droz holds court with automata complications and metiers d’arts; Glashutte Original showcases its different style and watchmaking approach; and Omega sheds some light on the much-vaunted METAS testing applied on all of its watches.
Which brings us to the year’s novelties: Lots of cool stuff from the brands revisiting their heritage, a fair bit of innovation where it really matters—and some completely new watches. Most importantly, all of them are extremely attractive and very wearable (some of them surprisingly so.)
Check out which pieces left the best impression on us in the galleries below.
Blancpain
Showing off its sporty side, this ultra-niche luxury brand takes to the skies for the first time in a long time. The Air Command is a vintage aviation timepiece inspired by a historical model from the 1960s. We especially like the use of aged Superluminova and the shiny black ceramic bezel.
Also very coo, we have the Fifty Fathoms Barakuda. Inspired by a historical model as well, CEO of Blancpain Marc A Hayek personally owns one of those beauties. The red-tipped hour markers are not a common sight and they really emphasise on the technical side of professional diving.
Breguet
Dress watches don’t come more elegant than the Classique 5177. This variation on the classic comes in white gold with a gorgeous dark blue enamel dial and beautiful painted hour numerals and Breguet insignia. Look very closely at the dial to see if you can spot the hidden Breguet signature that’s also transfered by hand.
The Marine has taken much of the spotlight since its revamp in 2018. Breguet releases the Marine Chronograph 5527 for chronograph lovers, with variations in grey as well as blue.
Glashutte Original
Introducing a new collection called Spezialist, Glashutte Original begins with a watch called the SeaQ, a diver’s watch from its past. Its minute hand with an arrow-tip is especially unique, as is the way it uses different Superluminova colours for the hands and the hour markers. Non-vintage style models are also available and they come with the Glashutte Original signature Panorama date.
The Sixties and Sixties Panorama Date are also new, featuring textured burnt orange dials redolent of the ultra-cool sixties vibe. Dialworking is one of the many skills done in-house at Glashutte Original, and something the German brand is very proud of.
Lots of cool stuff from the brands revisiting their heritage, a fair bit of innovation where it really matters—and some completely new watches.
Omega
Loads of good stuff from Omega this year. In particular, the Speedmaster Apollo 11 50thAnniversary Limited Edition which is a follow up to the full gold one unveiled in March. Limited to 6,969 pieces, this pieces comes with an engraving of Buzz Aldrin on the small seconds sub-dial as well as the Neil Armstrong’s footprint on the moon on the case back. The flat link bracelet wears exceptionally well on the wrist.
On the water-loving front, the Seamaster Planet Ocean Chrono now comes with a range of new bezels, including orange ceramic. As well, the Seamaster Diver 300m Chronograph offers the added timekeeping function thanks to the Calibre 9900. One special model comes with a laser relief engraved black bezel.
Jaquet Droz
Grande Seconde is Jaquet Droz’s flagship model, and its figure-eight dial always makes it very easily recognisable. But this dial also makes it difficult for the brand to add extra functions. Yet Jaquet Droz always finds a way. In the Grande Seconde Dual Time, everything’s concentrated on the lower dial, including the world map and 24-hour ring.
Similarly, the Grande Seconde Chronograph uses the lower dial to contain all the displays related to the timekeeping function. To preserve the watch’s refined design, Jaquet Droz also uses a single push-piece set into the crown. It has an ivory grand feu enamel dial which resonates beautifully with the blued hands.
Harry Winston
Most people know Harry Winston for its magnificent jewels but the brand also makes fabulous watches for men, melding the two worlds perfectly. The Emerald collection is a fine example of understated men’s elegance and deeply emblematic of Harry Winston. Like many blue dial watches, this is one you have to see in the flesh, and try on, to truly “get.”
For the first time, Harry Winston partners with another brand to create a watch. The Midnight Yozora Automatic is delivered with a bespoke Nakaya fountain pen in a special presentation box. Beautifully crafted, it is an ode to the New York night sky.
