So many watches, so little time (and money duh). But seriously, what does a watch enthusiast have to do these days to avoid making the cardinal mistakes, when so many web reviews don’t offer much more than listicles and platitudes?
Let’s see: You like watches, have a decent amount of disposable income to shell out, and are informed enough to discern between brands. Maybe you also know the difference between a chronograph and a chronometer, a world timer and a dual timezoner…
If you don’t, no worries. Just keep reading.
Now, what would really serve you are the cold hard facts. You need the essentials filtered out from all the raw data and delivered to you in palatable bite sized portions, because you can draw your own conclusions and make your own decisions.
Is this watch worth its price tag? The answer is subjective—how much do you value handcraftsmanship? Should you pull the trigger on that watch? Again, the answer is quite subjective—spoiler alert, there are no easy answers here. But we can try.
Because there is no clear benchmark on what makes a good watch, we’ll have to establish our own. How do we do that? By comparing the novelty in question with an existing equal or something similar, so it’s being assessed on its home turf.
Makes sense? Yeah we think so too.
THIS WEEK WE ARE REVIEWING:
The Omega Constellation Co-Axial Master Chronometer 41mm
In A Nutshell:
The iconic Omega Constellation gets a revamp but retains those core aesthetics which stand it apart from other timepieces in the elegant wristwatch category. Its best-loved features include the integrated single-link tapering bracelet, the four claws on the sides of the case, Roman numerals on the bezel, and those half-moon facets where the case meets the straps.
So what’s new? First up, its size. Now at 41mm, the new Constellation is claiming a larger share of wrist real estate. Next, Omega introduces ceramic bezels filled with patented Liquidmetal or Ceragold details. Filled into the engraved Roman numerals, they last much longer than standard lacquer transfer, and can even be finished so it contrasts with the polished ceramic.
Omega has also further modified the design of the case so you see bevelling on the edges as well as the claws. The crown, too, has been subtly reshaped. And the result is a comfortable and elegant timepiece befitting of its haute horlogerie label.
Here’s how the new 41mm gent’s Constellation compares with the classic 39mm model.
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| Case | 18K Sedna gold | 18K Sedna gold |
| Size | 41mm | 39mm |
| Bezel | Blue ceramic with Ceragold-filled Roman numerals | Sedna gold with engraved Roman numerals |
| Dial | Blue | Silk-embossed blue |
| Movement | Co-Axial Master Chronometer self-winding Calibre 8901 with 18K Sedna gold rotor and balance bridge | Co-Axial Master Chronometer self-winding Calibre 8801 with 18K Sedna gold rotor and balance bridge |
| Magnetic resistance | METAS-approved 15,000 gauss | METAS-approved 15,000 gauss |
| Power reserve | 60 hours | 55 hours |
| Water resistance | 50m | 50m |
| Crystal | Domed scratch‑resistant sapphire crystal with anti‑reflective treatment on both sides | Domed scratch‑resistant sapphire crystal with anti‑reflective treatment on both sides |
| Case back | Domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal | Domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal |
| Strap | Blue leather strap with anti-bacterial rubber lining | Dark blue leather strap |
| Other notes | Free-sprung balance with silicon balance spring
Hands, Omega logo, Constellation star, and facetted indexes in 18K Sedna gold Five year warranty Variations also in steel ($9,000), two-tone steel and Sedna gold ($12,000), and yellow gold ($28,350) |
Free-sprung balance with silicon balance spring
Hands, Omega logo, Constellation star, and facetted indexes in 18K Sedna gold Five year warranty Multiple variations in steel, two-tone steel and gold, and full gold |
| Price | $28,350 | $27,150 |
Our two cents:
By all accounts, the Omega Constellation is not a slim timepiece. In fact, its barrel shaped case and integrated bracelet structure make it chunkier than the average watch. Various facets and bevels help play down its heft, but still it’s not an easy piece to wear at 41mm.
So the 2mm upsize could turn some away, but you’ll know for sure when you try it on. Drop by the Omega boutique to try it on because one silver lining here, is that it’s delivered on a leather strap rather than metal bracelet.
That said, the extra 2mm brings a whole lotta fresh upgrades seen for the very first time in the Constellation line. We love how the blue polished ceramic bezel provides delightful contrast with the brushed Sedna gold surfaces. Given how it’s curved rather than flat, it would have been a big challenge to polish. Another feature that shouldn’t go unnoticed are the brushed Ceragold-filled Roman numerals.
Further proof that Omega went the extra mile with this model include the anti-bacterial rubber lining on the leather straps. Bonus feature: Collectors who already own the 39mm model will be happy to discover that the bracelet is perfectly compatible to this 41mm case.
PREVIOUS REVIEWS:
The Casio G-Shock Full Metal Construction GMW-B5000CS with grid design
In A Nutshell:
Ever since Casio G-Shock re-emerged in steel—that was in 2018—it’s like a brand new identity was forged for this timeless schoolyard classic. Suddenly, G-Shocks weren’t just for young adults and streetwear fiends anymore, but watch collectors too.
Buyers of luxury brands like Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Hublot, and more all started jumping onto the G-Shock bandwagon. Specifically, the full metal GMW-B5000 series. We could chalk it up to the whole stainless steel sports watch trend that’s still making its rounds now, but the truth is, watch lovers—this writer included—fell hard for the watch’s superb finish, excellent build quality, and unique digital but luxe appeal. Punch-up watchmaking at its finest.
After steel and gold-plated steel, Casio followed with an array of interesting colours, materials and finishes. There was black ion plating, gold ion plating, aged finish, and the ridiculously good looking digital camouflage print.
Joining the GMW-B5000 family in 2020 is the grid design GMW-B5000CS which manages to look classic yet at the same time futuristic. You get these silver lattices on black ion plating which were carved out by laser, so it’s not a print but part of the core material.
Here’s how it compares with the classic all-black GMW-B5000GD-1DR.
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| Case | Full stainless steel | Full stainless steel |
| Finish | Grid design | Black ion plating |
| Size | 49.3 × 43.2 × 13.0 mm | 49.3 × 43.2 × 13.0 mm |
| Crystal | Mineral | Mineral |
| Water resistance | 200m | 200m |
| Power | Tough Solar power system | Tough Solar power system |
| Smart phone connectivity | Yes | Yes |
| Display | High-luminosity full auto LED backlight | High-luminosity full auto LED backlight |
| Price | S$1,099 | S$849 |
Our two cents:
Pound for pound, the two watches are practically identical. But of course a grid design gives the watch a kind of geeky-chic appeal that can be quite irresistible. Because while all-black is nice, it's not awfully unique. Clothing the watch in a grid design stands it far apart from everything else on the market. Yet there’s also a nice timelessness to the overall aesthetic as well. Definitely worth the extra S$250. Or get both! They’re so collectible and perfect for everyday wear.
PREVIOUS REVIEWS:
The Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 80 Hours SLGH002
In A Nutshell:
2020 is a big year for Grand Seiko as the brand celebrates its 60th anniversary. The Hi-Beat 80 Hours SLGH002 is one of many limited editions released on this great occasion. With it comes a new movement, Calibre 9SA5, which represents the greatest technical leap so far by the Japanese manufacture.
High frequency escapement à la the 36,000vph hi-beat escapement. Long power reserve of 80 hours which is about three and a half days. A wider diameter but thinner profile allowing for a more elegant case. Finally, and most importantly, a spanking new dual impulse escapement equipped with a free-spring balance and overcoil hairspring—a first for Grand Seiko. The new pallet fork and escape wheel are made this using the manufacture’s in-house MEMS technology.
Meanwhile, the SBGW258 pays tribute to the OG, the very first Grand Seiko made in 1960.
It runs on the classic Calibre 9S64 and in addition to yellow gold exists in platinum as well as Brilliant Hard Titanium. The latter is a Grand Seiko exclusive material, as light as pure titanium yet blessed with a brighter shine.
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| Case | Yellow gold | Yellow gold |
| Size | 40mm | 38mm |
| Height | 11.7mm | 10.9mm |
| Movement | Calibre 9SA5 Hi-Beat 36000 automatic winding | Calibre 9S64 28,800vph manual winding |
| Accuracy | +5 to -3 seconds per day | +5 to -3 seconds per day |
| Power reserve | 80 hours | 72 hours |
| Water resistance | 100m | 30m |
| Crystal | Box-shaped sapphire crystal with AR coating | Dual-curved sapphire crystal with AR coating |
| Case back | Sapphire crystal | Sapphire crystal |
| Strap | Brown crocodile leather with three-fold button-release clasp | Brown crocodile leather with three-fold button-release clasp |
| Limited edition | Yes, 100 pieces | No |
| Crystal | Sapphire crystal | Sapphire crystal |
| Strap | Light brown crocodile leather with three-fold button-release clasp | Dark brown crocodile leather with three-fold button-release clasp |
| Other notes | Instant date change | — |
| Price | US$43,000 | US$26,000 |
Our two cents:
Watch lovers approach Grand Seiko for two main reasons: technical wizardry and aesthetic finesse. Calibre 9SA5 rounds up both of these elements in SLGH002 while ushering a new era for the brand.
In terms of size and proportion, it sits snugly on the wrist thanks to wider lugs. And those 18K yellow gold applied faceted indexes? Flawless.
Likewise, SBGW258 is a remarkable blend of slim elegance, chronometric precision, and mechanical finesse. So we think it all comes down to the essentials—how Covid-19 of us. Price and limited edition (or in the case of SBGW258, unlimited edition).
Both of these are a luxury connoisseur’s kryptonite. But if exclusivity trumps all, and if you’re a crazed watch geek, then by all means go with SLGH002 and its amazing Calibre 9SA5. It’s a little on the expensive side, but that’s the price to pay for incredible bragging rights.
Otherwise, if you just want to partake in the 60th anniversary festivities without leaving too significant a dent in your bank account, SBGW258 will do the job nicely, although neither of these watches could be called affordable. Moreover, there’s a platinum model (USD38,000) if you want to go higher, and a titanium one (USD8,000) for the value conscious.
PREVIOUS REVIEWS:
The TAG Heuer Connected Watch
In A Nutshell:
With a name that begins with an acronym for techniques d’avant gardes, TAG Heuer always has one hand in the technological universe. So when the Swiss watch industry went face to face with the onslaught of smart watches triggered by the Apple Watch’s launch in 2015, TAG Heuer was right there on the frontlines.
Responding to Apple’s charm offensive, TAG Heuer presented the Carrera Connected Modular, a watch that combines the virtues of traditional Swiss watchmaking with the modern day conveniences of digital wearable technology. Understandably, TAG Heuer did not have means to create the software so it sought the expertise of the best names in the business: Intel and Google.
Now in its third generation, the Connected Watch by TAG Heuer continues to improve. Leading the way for luxury connected watches, it combines refined aesthetics of a classical chronograph with the custom-designed digital experience of a smart device. This model offers the most comprehensive sports experiences through the TAG Heuer Sports app, which with a built-in GPS and heart monitor, can be used for golf, running, cycling, walking, fitness and other workouts.
Unlike the previous generations, though, it is not modular. But on the plus side, it is a lot more wearable thanks to a streamlined case, along with luxury upgrades like the screwed ceramic bezel, central rotating crown, and two functional pushers.
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| Case | Non-modular; in stainless steel or titanium | Modular; in various finishes and materials |
| Size | 45mm | 45mm (also available in 41mm) |
| Operating system | Wear OS by Google | Android Wear 2.0 |
| Google Assistant | Yes (except for certain languages and countries) | Yes (except for certain languages and countries) |
| Google Pay | Selected countries and bank partners | Selected countries and bank partners |
| Google Voice | Yes | Yes |
| Battery life | 20 hours including one-hour workout; or six hours of sports use (GPS, heart rate, and music) | 25 hours |
| Charging time | 1.5 hours | 1 hour 50 minutes |
| Processor | Qualcomm Snapdragon Wear 3100 | Intel 1.6GHz Dual-core |
| Connectivity | BT SMART, WiFi | Wi-Fi, Bluetooth and NFC |
| Display | 1.39-inch OLED 454×454 pixels (326 ppi) | 1.39-inch AMOLED 400×400 pixels |
| Navigation | With touchscreen, or crown and two pushers | Touchscreen and crown |
| Crystal | Sapphire crystal | Sapphire crystal |
| Strap | Interchangeable rubber strap or metal bracelet | Interchangeable rubber strap |
| Other notes | Low battery mode; sensors for heart rate, compass, accelerometer, gyroscope, NFC, microphone; more compact case | Compass, accelerometer, gyroscope but no heart rate monitor and no low battery mode |
| Price | From $2,550 | From $2,150 |
Our two cents:
First up, great news for fitness buffs. This version is a lot more wearable than the previous one despite being the exact same size at 45mm. TAG Heuer moved the antenna from between the top lugs to underneath the bezel, resulting in a more compact case and a bracelet (or strap) that wraps more snugly around the wrist. For a watch that’s designed to go cycling or swimming, even golfing, this is a big—and long overdue—upgrade.
Next, even though the watch is no longer modular, it retains the interchangeable strap system which is very easy to operate. The rubber straps are very comfortable even though the watch now in steel as opposed to titanium weighs a bit more now. But look at it another way: this gives it a luxe vibe and puts it closer to TAG Heuer’s mechanical Carrera range in terms of aesthetics.
Other key new features include the heart rate monitor which was glaringly missing from the earlier models, plus a shorter charging time and a more compact charging deck.
In other words, this version wears better, looks better, and works better. Sure, it’s priced a tad higher than its predecessor, but the new Connected Watch’s return-on-investments make it well worth forking out the extra.
PREVIOUS REVIEWS:
The Breitling Ref. 765 AVI 1953 Re-Edition
In A Nutshell:
Believe it or not, this is only the second modern re-edition watch to have ever come out of Breitling. AVI Ref. 765 1953 Re-edition pays tribute to an historical model known as the Co-Pilot, but which was actually named Ref. 765 AVI, where AVI stood for aviation.
During the 1950s, Breitling drew a lot of inspiration from the onboard clocks and instruments, many of which were made by its Breitling Huit Aviation Department. And this faithfully reissued piece really takes us back.
In this piece, Breitling stayed close to the original, retaining even those slim syringe hands, domed hesalite crystal, and selecting a beige Superluminova, which is hand-applied for an extra touch of old world charm. Look at the dial up close, you’ll appreciate how the satiny matte finish reflects almost no light at all.
There are some key differences, though. The old ‘Geneve’ below the Breitling logo has been left out, since the company is no longer located in Geneva. And the chronograph pushers protrude just slightly more than the original. Fans of vintage Breitling watches have much to look forward to here.
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| Case material | Stainless steel | Stainless steel |
| Size | 41.1mm | 40.9mm |
| Bezel | Steel bi-directional 12-hour fluted bezel | Steel bi-directional beaded bezel with precisely 94 beads |
| Crystal | Domed hesalite | Acrylic |
| Dial | Black | Black |
| Hands | Thin syringe hands | Standard syringe hands |
| Movement | Manual winding COSC certified Calibre B09 | Manual winding COSC certified Calibre B09 |
| Water resistance | 30m | 30m |
| Power reserve | 70 hours | 70 hours |
| Case back | Screwed-down, stainless steel | Snap, stainless steel |
| Strap | Black vintage-inspired leather with pin buckle | Black vintage-inspired leather with pin buckle |
| Limited edition | 1,953 pieces | 1,959 pieces |
| Other notes | — | First re-edition made by Breitling |
| Price | $11,750 | $11,750 |
Our two cents:
Vintage Breitling is huge among watch collectors. This company has made so many different and amazing and interesting watches over the decades, it’s almost shocking that the Ref. 765 AVI 1953 Re-Edition is only the second Breitling tribute model ever made. Still, it’s always better late than never.
With this new limited edition, and also Ref. 806 of 2019, CEO Georges Kern and team show us how well they understand the quirks and eccentricities of the vintage watch market: it’s all about the details. To insist on hand painting the lume for these watches seems excessive but it yields just the perfect faux-tina effect which looks absolutely gorgeous up-close. And that is basically kryptonite to all watch lovers.
So. Which piece to get? Ref. 765 or Ref. 806? We'll lay it all out for you. If, like all seasoned watch collectors, you already have a Navitimer, then seriously consider the Ref. 765. But if you’re new to the brand, then it’s really hard to argue against the Navitimer as your first Breitling watch, especially one as collectible as the 806.
PREVIOUS REVIEWS:
The Rado Tradition Golden Horse Automatic
In A Nutshell:
The Golden Horse is Rado’s first watch—how about that! It goes back to 1957 which explains its 50s/60s vintage aesthetic. But this contemporary automatic model comes with updated proportions—a bigger case, bolder bezel, more distinctive crown—and cool dial colours. Being a leader in high-tech ceramic, the watches are crafted with innovative materials such as rose gold Ceramos and polished plasma high-tech ceramic. A pair of seahorses identify the collection as Rado’s classic icon, but this time it also comes with an interchangeable strap system so you can swap among a leather strap option, a three-link bracelet, or the very lovely rice grain style bracelet.
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| Case material | Polished and brushed stainless steel | Matte stainless steel |
| Bezel | Polished plasma high-tech ceramic with engraved markers | — |
| Size | 42mm | 37mm |
| Dial | Dark grey with rose gold coloured indexes; blue or green with rhodium coloured indexes | Black to red ombre with rhodium coloured indexes |
| Hands | Rose gold coloured or rhodium coloured | Rhodium coloured |
| Movement | ETA C07.611 automatic with 80-hour power reserve | ETA C07.611 automatic with 80-hour power reserve |
| Crystal | Box-shaped sapphire crystal with AR coating on both sides | Box-shaped sapphire crystal with AR coating on both sides |
| Strap | Black calf leather with stamped crocodile print; seven-row rice grain-type bracelet; three-link bracelet | Black leather; seven-row rice grain-type bracelet |
| Other notes | Two-tone models with rose gold coloured Ceramos also available | Limited edition 1,957 pieces |
| Price | $2,690 on strap, $2,830 on bracelet | $2,410 on strap, $2,550 on bracelet |
Our two cents:
That smoky black-red dial on the limited edition piece is really hard to resist, especially if you're on the look-out for a 37mm timepiece, but the contemporary model offers nice colour options as well—look at that green! And sized at 42mm, you’ll get a more updated look which blends nicely with daily workwear. The bezel with engraved markers is a nice touch too. What else can we say? The watch looks really good on a bracelet and between the two designs, the rice grain one is an absolute winner (insert heart emoji). It’s so full-on Mad Men we can’t even.
PREVIOUS REVIEWS:
The Hamilton Khaki Pilot Pioneer
In A Nutshell:
We probably don’t say it enough but Hamilton makes some truly fine watches—and tagged to a price so virtuous it's like we don’t deserve them. Case in point: Last year’s big hit, the 38mm Khaki Field Mechanical which starts at a jaw-dropping $690. A-mah-zing! For 2019, Hamilton follows up with a vintage-style aviation model that’s a clear throwback to a 1970s watch called the W10. The Khaki Pilot Pioneer serves up just the right amount of good old-fashioned charm delivered via aged Superluminova hands, an historically accurate brand logo, and a strict military style dial. The 33mm case size is also fabulously on-point, which brings us to the best part: No date window. Huzzah!
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| Case material | Matte stainless steel | Matte stainless steel |
| Size | 33mm | 38mm |
| Dial | Black with grained finish | Black matte finish |
| Hands | Nickeled sword-shaped hour and minute hands with beige SuperLuminova, nickeled second hand | Syringe-shaped hour and minute hands filled with aged Superluminova, white lollipop second hand |
| Movement | H-50 hand winding movement with 80-hour power reserve | H-50 hand winding movement with 80-hour power reserve |
| Crystal | Hardened mineral crystal in box shape with double antireflective coating | Sapphire crystal |
| Strap | NATO in grey textile or brown calfskin leather | NATO in textile and leather with various finishes |
| Other notes | Distinct 70s style cushioned case shape; vintage logo | Special variations in earth-coloured PVD coating; contemporary logo |
| Price | From S$1,190 | From S$690 |
Our two cents:
A great brand plus a great history, authentic design coupled with an exclusive manually-wound mechanical movement, long power reserve, and a vintage aviation spirit. All this for a wallet-friendly S$1,190! While that’s not quite near the same ball park as the Khaki Field Mechanical, lots of brands would not hesitate to go upwards of five grand for something awesome like this. That alone is reason enough to pick up the Khaki Pilot Pioneer because it is definitely one of the most undervalued watches on the market right now.
PREVIOUS REVIEWS:
The IWC Big Pilot's Watch Edition 'Right-hander'
In A Nutshell:
A stalwart in the aviation universe and a must-have for a lot of watch enthusiasts, the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch comes from a long history of flight timekeeping going back to the 1940s. Throughout this time, it’s preserved its core aesthetics, retaining the oversized case, ultra-legible dial, oversized hands, the B-Uhren style triangle flanked by two dots at 12 o’clock, and the oversized conical crown. All in all, it’s a superbly functional watch that does a bang-up job telling the time. Yet due to its sheer size there’s also an undeniable sense of majesty here you don’t usually see in military style watches.
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| Case material | Stainless steel | Stainless steel |
| Size | 46.2mm | 46.2mm |
| Dial | Slate grey with sunburst finish | Blue with sunburst finish |
| Sub-dials | Black with white hands | Blue with white hand |
| Hands | Black with luminescent white paint | Steel with luminescent white paint |
| Case back | Solid, with standard Junkers JU-52 engraving | Solid, with Little Prince engraving |
| Movement | Calibre 52010 with seven-day power reserve | Calibre 52110 with seven-day power reserve |
| Strap | Black calfskin | Brown Santoni calfskin |
| Other notes | Left-hand crown; additional sub-dial for small seconds | White sweeping seconds hand |
| Limited edition | 250 pieces | Limited production |
| Price | S$21,700 | S$19,700 |
Our two cents:
IWC has been making the Big Pilot’s Watch for decades but this is the first time it’s done a left-crown version. Interesting fact: While only about 10 per cent of people are left-handed, the number goes up to almost 40 per cent when it comes to pilots. So the Big Pilot’s Watch Edition 'Right-hander' is made expressly for this special group—and/or people who just prefer wearing their watches on the right hand.
Between this and the beautiful blue Le Petit Prince model, though, it’s a fairly tough choice. However, if you’ve always wanted a classic Big Pilot’s Watch without the sweeping seconds hand, there is no better choice than the Big Pilot’s Watch Edition 'Right-hander'.
PREVIOUS REVIEWS:
The Omega Speedmaster Moon Watch 321 Platinum
In A Nutshell:
The Speedmaster Moon Watch is more than an Omega icon; it is a cultural icon. It represents that one small step for a man, one giant leap for mankind. Born in 1957 and intended for the racing circuit rather than outer space, the Speedmaster has evolved into countless forms, each one significant in its own way.
2019 is a particularly big year for the Speedmaster Moon Watch because this is the 50thanniversary of the Apollo 11 moon landing. Two limited editions were made and launched in May. And this would be the third special piece Omega has made, although strictly speaking it doesn’t commemorate Apollo 11. Rather, it honours the movement in the Speedmasters of the 1960s, which made all the difference for Omega.
Calibre 321 went out of production as early as in the mid 1960s. But it was the very movement tested by NASA to qualify the Speedmaster as worthy of space travel. Incidentally, the Speedmaster was up against a Rolex pre-Daytona chronograph and a Longines-Wittnauer chronograph. Both these watches functioned on a Valjoux 72, while the Omega was powered by… You guessed it, Calibre 321.
So the Speedmaster Moon Watch 321 Platinum is the first watch after more than 50 years to feature this legendary movement. Take a good look at it in the gallery above. Stunning isn’t it?
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| Speedmaster Moon Watch 321 Platinum | Speedmaster Moon Watch Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Limited Edition | |
| Case material | Platinum-gold alloy | Moonshine gold |
| Case size | 42mm | 42mm |
| Dial | Black onyx | Vertically brushed Moonshine gold with faceted onyx hour markers |
| Sub-dials | Moon meteorite | Moonshine gold |
| Hands | White gold | Moonshine gold |
| Case back | Sapphire crystal | Sapphire crystal; partial world map and domed meteorite inlay representing Moon |
| Movement | Calibre 321 manual winding chronograph | Calibre 3861 manual winding chronograph |
| Strap | Black leather with platinum buckle | Moonshine gold bracelet |
| Other notes | Not a tribute to Apollo 11; first watch with the rebooted Calibre 321 | A tribute to Apollo 11; commemorates the astronauts and key NASA personnel |
| Limited edition | Not a limited edition | 1,014 pieces |
| Price | S$82,500 | S$48,000 |
Our two cents:
Not Omega’s first Apollo 11 commemoration piece, the Speedmaster Moon Watch 321 Platinum will also not be its last. What it is, however, is a tribute to one of the most beautiful manual-winding movements Omega has ever made. Not only that. Omega made it even better than the original, updating it to modern standards. In fact, before the manufacture unveiled this watch, they’d launched the movement first, showing how important Calibre 321 is to the Omega.
In comparison with the Apollo 11 50thAnniversary Limited Edition in Moonshine gold, the Speedmaster Moon Watch 321 Platinum seems like a completely different watch. But as one is a limited edition and the other is not, we may not be comparing apples with apples here. Despite that, we’ll leave you with this: The non-limited edition will very likely end up being even more exclusive than the limited edition. Think about it.
PREVIOUS REVIEWS:
The TAG Heuer Monaco 1979-1989 Limited Edition
In A Nutshell:
No other square cased watch rivals the TAG Heuer Monaco in fame and distinction. Born in 1969, it was—as most icons somehow are—not an immediate success, even though it did bring the world one of its very first self-winding chronographs. The archetypal Monaco look is never without the nine o’clock crown, square sub-dials in white, and a perforated strap reminiscent of motor racing. And when screen legend Steve McQueen wore it in the 1971 film Le Mans, that was when the Monaco became much more than just a watch.
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| Monaco 1979-1989 Limited Edition | Monaco Calibre 11 | |
| Case material | Stainless steel | Stainless steel |
| Case size | 39mm X 39mm | 39mm X 39mm |
| Dial | Red with sunray finishing; special serif font for the word 'Monaco' | Matte blue |
| Sub-dials | Cushion-shaped, rhodium-plated | Square-shaped, white |
| Hands | Black and white | Red |
| Case back | Solid with special engraving | Sapphire crystal |
| Movement | Calibre 11 self-winding chronograph | Calibre 11 self-winding chronograph |
| Strap | Black perforated calfskin with red underlining | Black perforated calfskin |
| Other special features | Special 1980s inspired box in dark blue decorated with horizontal chequered stripes | –– |
| Limited edition | 169 pieces | –– |
| Price | S$9,250 | S$8,250 |
Our two cents:
A red Monaco Calibre 11 sounds like an amazing idea on paper, and TAG Heuer certainly delivered the goods there. Sunray finish makes the dial extra appealing. Priced just one grand above the classic, this ultra-collectible piece is a tempting offer, even if cushion-shaped sub-dials and that new Monaco typeface might take a little getting used to. If you’re not a fan, don’t worry. TAG Heuer still has three other commemorative editions to roll out till the end of the year. But if you’re one of those self-confessed Monaco diehards, GET IT!
PREVIOUS REVIEWS:
The Panerai Submersible Chrono Guillaume Néry PAM983
In A Nutshell:
Mare Nostrum. These two words may only be found on some of the rarest Panerai special models, but it forms the linchpin of this Italian manufacture and its single strongest source of creative inspiration. In Latin it means ‘our sea’ and as a pioneer of early dive instruments, Panerai has always regarded the sea as a natural habitat, so to speak.
PAM983 and PAM982 are two Submersible models dedicated to and designed with champion free diver Guillaume Néry, who was with us at the world’s first Panerai Hub in Shanghai. Both are chronographs with the same movement, but why does one cost almost twice as much?
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| Case material | Brushed titanium | Titanium DLC |
| Case size | 47mm | 47mm |
| Dial design | Shark grey with a unique texturised effect | Turquoise dégradé with unique texturised effect |
| Movement | Calibre P.9100 with flyback chronograph and three-day power reserve | Calibre P.9100 with flyback chronograph and three-day power reserve |
| Hands | Silver and blue | Silver and turquoise |
| Bezel | Titanium with blue ceramic insert | Titanium DLC with black ceramic insert |
| Case back | Solid brushed titanium with special engraving | Solid titanium DLC with special engraving |
| Other features | –– | Boutique edition; includes a trip to dive among whales in the French Polynesia with Néry |
| Limited edition | –– | 15 pieces |
| Price | S$27,800 | S$57,200 |
Our two cents:
They’re both Submersibles and made for the same guy but these two watches cannot be more different. One has a superb matte blue on titanium aesthetic and the other rocks an all-black ensemble that highlights a turquoise dial reminiscent of a blue lagoon. For those who love to lament that all Panerais look alike, PAM983 is something that will definitely float your boat. Most importantly, with it comes a special holiday to paradise. Sure, it costs quite a bit more but there’s an experience money cannot buy, and that’s only IF you can land one of those beauties. Mind, there are only 15 in the world.
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The A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “25thAnniversary”
In A Nutshell:
An anniversary is always a good time for watch brands to release special editions, some more interesting than others. The Lange 1 is of course A. Lange & Sohne’s most emblematic timepiece and this variation is the most complicated model in the Lange 1 family. Particularly notable is how the movement displays the perpetual calendar with indicators that do not disturb the iconic off-centred dial design. But is it much better than the non-anniversary model and therefore worth the extra €2,000?
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| Case material | White gold | White gold or pink gold |
| Case size | 41.9mm | 41.9mm |
| Dial | Solid silver, argenté | Solid silver, light grey or argenté |
| Movement | Calibre L082.1 | Calibre L082.1 |
| Hands | Blued steel | Rhodiumed gold or pink gold |
| Hour markers | Blue printed | Solid white or pink gold appliques |
| Moon phase | White gold with hand-engraved stars | Standard blued steel moon disc with gold moon and stars |
| Other features | Special blue lacquer, engraved balance bridges | — |
| Limited edition | 25 | — |
| Price | €321,100 (approximately S$488,900) | €319,100 (approximately S$485,900) |
Our two cents:
You're trading gold appliqués for a gold moon phase disc with hand-engraved stars. Also you're getting extra hand-engraving on the balance bridge, topped off with blue lacquer. Seems like a pretty decent offer already. Most importantly, it's a 25-piece limited edition so it's super exclusive—hello bragging rights. If money were no object, we'd love for it to be cased in platinum but then again, we're just talking.
